Quote:
Originally Posted by Arminius
He'll have to make it a higher number soon.
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Don't jinx it!
I've actually got a pretty good feeling about this tank. The odometer seems to confirm it....
Anyway, I just got off the phone with a guy who owns a golf-cart dealership in town. He said that on Thursday he's getting a load of 12 "used" deep cycle batteries from a ZAP electric car, and he'll sell me a few of them for whatever the core price is.
So, looks like I'll be using
Darin's battery testing method and looking for a cheap 12v charger.
While I had the ECU pulled out trying to hook up my SuperMID, I also spliced into my "Alternator Control" wire.
And for all you curious folks with civics/integras/preludes, here's an
ECU pinout so you can find it too. It's pin 16A (white/green wire)
Here's a nice
article about Honda's alternator control circuitry.
Quote:
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This tells the ECU that the battery is fully charged and the electrical demands are very low. When this happens, the ECU will turn off the alternator. The voltage regulator puts approximately 8.5V (reference voltage) on the control wire, labeled "C" (WHT/GRN). When the ECU drops this signal to ground, the alternator will stop charging. If this wire is shorted to ground, the alternator will never charge.
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Turns out that by grounding the Alt control wire, the alt shuts off. I tested it all out with my DMM and it looks to be true. 14.4v before, and 12.5ish when the alt control wire is grounded, and there's a noticeable difference in the sound of the engine at idle when doing this.
Here's a little list of things I'm trying to collect within the next few weeks:
-two 6v or 12v deep cycle batteries
-small digital voltmeter (to mount on the dash)
-interuptor switch (to ground the alt control wire)
-4awg jumper cables, welding cable or amplifier wiring kit.
-12v battery charger (around 15 amps)