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Yeah, I haven't tried out any MIMA modes aside from manual. Manual mode seems ideal for the kind of driving I do.
I can't recommend a DC/DC converter toggle switch or an Optima battery. It's too heavy, expensive, inefficient, and too much of pain for me to use it outside of FE competitions. The correct approach is to replace your IMA battery with >5KWh of lithium cells. It's no fun when your voltage sags to the point where your dash lights go dim with each blink of the turn signal, or when you run the headlights at 10V. Plus, the cycle life of the Optima is unimpressive: 200 cycles to 50% capacity at 100% DoD, 1000 cycles at 50% DoD. Thundersky makes a LFP 12V battery that you might look for reviews of. I'm sure it'll have better cycle life, Wh/$, and Wh/kg than the Optima.
The wire to mess with is DVINH, which you can find at the DC/DC or MCM. You do have the circuit diagrams, right? The DC/DC creates a 5V logic signal, and if the MCM grounds it, the DC/DC shuts down. So tap in to that wire, run a wire over to your switch board, and from the other leg of your switch to ground.
I also cut the wire from the MCM, revoking the MCM's authority to turn off the DC/DC and generating a P1445. I bet applying 5V to the MCM side of the DVINH would have cleared the code. But perhaps it's more important than I realized to allow the MCM to shut off the DC/DC... what if it's necessary to prevent overdischarging and reversing a cell? I've been effectively drawing a couple of amps of assist every time I go engine-off, and Honda's BMS is powerless to stop it.
I think the issue I'm having with sustaining assist now, which in hindsight I've been having since before MIMA, is a weak IMA battery. It has no problem offering regen, but it doesn't like to give assist. That's pretty clear. Time to dust off the Super Brain again.
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