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If you've reduced all other losses to the extent that you're seeing over 80mpg, then yes it becomes a larger % of the losses. I'm sure that the measured 288W while running @ 14.4V was way less than 200W @ 11.5V. Perhaps null point if that loss is being taken out of the equation but you can reduce this loss while retaining functionality.
Spinning an unloaded alternator by hand is easy, that belt is not very significant. What is would be reducing the loads. The best method is explained in that article, switching the regulator voltage. Think about what happened there.
-You cut the voltage going to the spark plugs (possibly reducing MPG). Ideally you would want to keep this one up there as a weaker spark is less effective as plugs wear.
-slowed down the fuel pump. Unless it's mechanical pump or a fancy PWM controlled one instead of the old on/off+FPR setup. It's possible that downsizing this could help.
-cut the lights and resistive losses drastically. Do you think if those were all LED's you would have seen nearly 10% difference?
To be honest I am shocked to see that chopping 1/2HP would yield such a result in that test. That would mean the motor is only operating at 5HP?? Not very inclusive of a typical drive if the gains are totally swamped by a single acceleration.
Sorry to be so dismissive about this but I feel that it's a pretty important part to keep on there. From the perspective of running at a loss to recharge at home I can see the benefit, but outside of that it seems like you'd be putting yourself in a position to constantly fret about reliability in range and restarting.
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