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I think the prettiest option is to have it match the walls or cabinets in the kitchen.
Cork has many nice properties, but I was thinking of adding four inches of insulation to each side of the fridge, at which point cork becomes cost-prohibitive. I'm leaning towards fiberglass batting, as it has the most thermal resistance for the dollar. Can I buy cellulose batting locally?
@Ollie: adding loaves of thermal mass helps reduce door opening losses by reducing the volume of air that can escape during each door opening event. Adding thermal mass doesn't affect the amount of energy that escapes when the door opens: empty water jugs should work just as well as full.
But full water jugs would reduce the number of times during the day it cycles on and off, which could save a little power. Also, the water jugs can be set outside to freeze in the winter, and brought into the fridge to thaw.
Piwoslaw, you have an interesting fridge. I wonder, how much insulation does it have? My fridge's sidewalls including the steel outer and plastic inner shells are 4cm for the fridge, 5.5cm for the freezer.
Another thing I noticed is when my fridge turns on, it draws 680W / 6A, and the voltage at the KaW drops from 121V to 117V. Am I losing an additional 3% through iČR losses between my breaker box and the outlet in the kitchen? The house dates to 1929, and I have no idea how old the wiring is.
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