Quote:
Originally Posted by skyl4rk
I have folded the coroplast using heat, with the purpose of doubling the edge for strength and to make it easier to fasten to. I took a metal straight edge, clamped it down along the coroplast at the bend, and ran a propane torch along the bend area, then quickly grabbed the coroplast and bent it. Then flamed the other side a bit to make the coroplast relax and keep the bend.
I think you could make a bump in the middle of the coroplast. Cut a hole in a piece of plywood in the right shape. Set the coroplast on the plywood. Make a plug with rounded edges, smaller than the hole in the plywood, and make it so you can add weight. Put the plug with weight on the coroplast over the hole, and from underneath, start flaming the coroplast. It will probably get wavy and buckle, but I think it would work and would be permanent if you let it cool before removing the plug and weight. You might want to make a stop so that the plug doesn't go all the way through.
Coroplast could probably be vacuum formed, within limits. The corrugation reduces the ability to change the shape, but some changes could be made.
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That's what I was hoping to hear: Suppose I could otherwise attach Coro to existing fix points on the bottom of my Ford Econoline van,
but for a couple or widgets protruding below a horizontal plane formed by the vehicle's rocker panels and other structural geometry. By making a plywood template of teardrop shape and putting it at the proper places on the Coroplast, I could make thermoformed aerodynamic blisters in the sheet, so it bulges down far enough to clear the pesky widgets, but is still basically flat to take advantage of the van's rocker panels and other co-planar attach points.
Such localized heat forming would also be handy for making flat nose undertrays into wheel fairings--flat in the middle but gently drooping blisters at sides to fair the air past wheels. Some of the baby Benz cars have this sort of fairing, but we could do it on the cheap.