Quote:
Originally Posted by mcrews
cmj,
maybe you should try using the search function and read about tires in other posts before asking hypothetical questions that have been adressed before.
also, there are people on here who have done some amazing mods that didn't use coroplast and duct tape. again try using the search.
Finally, the only reason to 'lower a car and run flush fitment' is for looks. There is no proven reason otherwise. Cars are each built for specific performance and setup. There is a balance built in. When you start moving things around you throw all the design limits uot the window. Bushing wear uot prematurely, each pound over factory wheel/tire weight is multiplied by 4 as moving mass.
You can absolutely do what ever you want with your car. afterall this is America. But false justifications won't validate.
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I have done research, and the only amount of info even relevant to this discussion is heavier wheel/tire combo multiplied by 4. I'm using a larger diameter wheel, yes the actual wheel mass is moved 1" further out (radially) but I'm also losing 1" radial sidewall. Less tire (smaller sidewall), Lighter wheels == less rolling resistance. Also, who can argue with lowering a car to reduce air flow underneath? Premature bushing wear is always a consideration when changing suspension geometry, but with proper camber adjustment kits and steer spacers, proper geometry is maintained.
Please enlighten me to my false justifications. I created this thread to voice some ideas that I haven't seen posted.. A different way of doing things. I'm looking for specific feedback, not just general reasons as to why my hypothesis are incorrect (no more calling them theories, because they have not been even remotely proven)