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Hm, I don't see why that other relay wouldn't work. I would think it should be good for 10A at any voltage below 120 volts. Voltage would cap out due to where you start getting arcing, but current is current - 10A at 24V DC looks the same as 10A at 12DC, or 5DC - because the switch doesn't have a voltage drop across it anyways, unless it's open.
Does your original relay say what the coil resistance is? I found one on Radio Shack that was 30A, and listed 160mA for the coil, but also 400 ohms, so at 15V (the high end in a car) it's still only pulling 37mA. Maybe startup/drop currents because it's not resistive?
Sorry to hear about your relay! I hate when stuff breaks. Did you get one of the ones from Radio Shack with wire pins instead of the flat auto connectors? That's what I used, which is also why I had breadboard - I soldered the relay to a little board, soldered my wires onto that, and then wrapped it in tape.
I came up with an idea for a kill switch that would use this same relay - between the switch and the relay, tap in a second line. Attach this second line into a toggle switch, and from the toggle switch into the normally-open side of a second relay, and then into ground. Power the normally-open relay with the starter signal. During normal driving, this relay won't be powered and the second relay will stay open, so even if you bump the switch you don't kill the engine. However, if you flip the switch off when you leave the car, it's harder to hotwire - the starter signal will also kick the second relay on, which will ground out the first relay, interrupting power to the injectors. Fortunately, theft is not a big issue in backwoods Michigan, so I'll probably never try this.
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