Quote:
Originally Posted by max_frontal_area
Hey Phil,
does your hood tilt forward like a vette? is there a practical purpose to the gap between the rearmost top of the cab and the bed fairing?
on the air/cooling intake which is frenched into the bumper i see a cone, is it part of a fixed venturi? if so what temp drop do you get on the interstate?
i have been thinking on ram air setup on my 80's 300TD wagon, removing the ugly DOT imposed "sealed beam headlights" which displaced the most powerful lights on the road in those days with barely functional candles. intead i will source the smallest (frontal area) high low beam lights i can find, place a huge ram air scoop (exclusively to feed the turbo) on one side of the radiator
and an intercooler on the other side. i feel strongly about feeding turbos and keeping the compressor side cool, therefore the desire to use a venturi.
however, as air velocities change i feel a venturi of that size needs to be variable much like the cones in the SR71, if only they could have found a way to syncronise them, in the time they took to actuate pilots fopund themselves 11 miles off course. back on the ground, do you have any ideas on making one variable, and, a way of acuating it 
oops, forgot to mention i also want to do pre turbo misting (h2o) i can make tiny drops which wont hurt the compressor vanes, so its placement will either complicate this design or could possibly create symbiosis - if the misting head can be placed within the cone of the venturi...
- dig your stuff. dont ever stop! |
The forward tilting hood is the ultimate objective.Right now I have to remove two handfuls of screws and the blister just to open the hood.Prototypes are like that.No convenience whatsoever!
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The cab/aeroshell gap allows clearance for frame flex inherent in the non-unibody trucks.I'll soften the leading edge of Poco-Loco at some point to help in yaw conditions but I've got bigger fish to fry first.
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The 'cone' inside the grille-block inlet is actually a 'valve' to help regulate airflow volume especially in the winter,when it will actually fully close when the truck is parked.I thought it might help conserve some engine heat,reducing 'cold-start' issues.The inlet to the radiator is air-tight and the engine runs at normal temp,although at lower load do to the reduced drag of the grille-block.So far the computer appears to be smart enough to keep the BSFC fairly constant,where a carburetored truck might suffer.
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I'm not going to be much help to you on the turbo.I'd be looking at serious race cars on that one.You almost need to get a static pressure probe and a good manometer and locate your highest pressure,whether at the forward stagnation point,or maybe even inside a wheel well.Don't know.
I think the bigger issue is rejecting the heat of compression from the compressor section.Does anyone mist the inter-cooler itself? De-ionized/de-mineralized water so zero salt buildup on the core? And no risk to the turbo if there is a plumbing problem?