Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com - View Single Post

slowmover · 10-21-2010, 08:19 PM

It's interesting researching Hensley/ProPride history.

Best two threads on the Net are from the Airstream enthusiast site, Airforums

the ultimate haha users guide... - Airstream Forums

the unofficial pp users guide... - Airstream Forums

Now, whether you need one or not is up to you. The anti-sway works separately from the weight-distribution properties. A used Hensley can go for around $1200 or less on hitchtrader.com (or Craigslist) and you'd be pleased to have it. But it is more important to set up what you have properly in the first place, and that requires the use of a certified scale.

There is a lot out there from him and it is interested reading. But I do believe I am weight limited for many reasons that have nothing to do with MPG. It might not be the 3500# that Toyota says as I am sure to be over that at some point. Let's say the TT added 0% to the aero drag, what's the weight limit for my TV? Can I tow 10,000#?

You'd be surprised. TW is a limiting factor in my mind, but it's hard to argue with Thomson's approach and success. It's outside of standard ratings, but, frankly, they're not what they ought to be. We (self and others) who attempt to help others to set up their rigs default to manufacturer numbers. But it's not as if we didn't work with what worked, so to speak, in the 1960's and '70's. I think you can duplicate what CAN AM has done on a TV like yours with an otherwise identical trailer. But you need his hitch receiver (or plans) and need to follow his other guidelines (tires, shocks; speed of travel).

I've seen him set up Cooper Mini's and Jeep Wranglers to tow Airstream trailers much bigger than yours. You must do the homework and understand that some TT's won't work. It's all in the hitch rigging, and in TV prep. I look forward to getting up there some day and paying them to go over my rig.

The Visa has a torsion axle. Do you think that's damping enough?

Yes, independent suspension trumps all other kinds. Adding disc brakes is the worthwhile upgrade.

They are bias ply. I have been wondering if a better tire would be worthwhile?

A truck tire "LT" designation is the other choice. I used LT's on mine. Bias is a mistake. Put 'em on Craigslist. Tire rating and wheel rating must be appropriate for trailer. Cheap trailers have a habit of bieng shod with barely adequate suspensions, tires, brakes. Worth going through.

Some pics of your rig would be nice.

Here's an example of a newbie asking if his truck can tow a certain trailer. Note how the question is answered. This is the standard approach for a crude TV and even more crude TT:

EXAMPLE:

http://forums.woodalls.com/Index.cfm...d/24482184.cfm

I am new to this-hello. I am looking into buying a travel trailer. I have towed things like jet ski's, boats etc, but never a travel trailer. I am going to buy one this winter. I am having the hardest time finding one I like in the weight range I think I need to be within. My trucks specifics are this:

2009 Chevy Silverado 5.3 L 315 HP Z71 with the heavy duty tow package with all the coolers. Off road springs. Towing capacity of 9500-lbs.

I am getting all kinds of opinions of how much to be under my capacity. Here are the specs of the trailer. I have a friend that feels you should be 1000 pounds under your tow capacity in the end and it has me nervous. Again, I am rated for 9500 and wil have the weight distribution/anti-sway set up.

GVW: 9,250
Dry Weight: 7,480
Hitch Weight: 1,075

HELP.................

--------------------------------------

1] Load your truck approximately as it would be when ready for camping and get it weighed. This is your TV's GVW. Just for example, let's assume this turns out to be 6300#.

2] Find the manufacturer's Curb Weight for your truck. Let's assume this is 5300#.

3] Subtract the weight in [2] from the weight in [1]. For this example, the weight of "extras" (optional equipment, passengers, cargo, etc) which has been added to the base vehicle is 1000#.

4] Subtract the weight of "extras" (1000#) from the truck's "Maximum Trailer Weight" (MTW). For this example, the result is 9500-1000 = 8500#. This is the maximum that the TT can weigh when loaded for camping. It makes no difference if the TT's GVWR exceeds this amount as long as it is not loaded to more than the MTW minus the "extras".

5] Look on the truck's receiver for the "Weight Distributing" "Maximum Trailer Weight" rating. Use the smaller of this value or the value from [4].

6] Subtract the TT's GVW from its GVWR. Assuming your truck's GVWR is 7000#, the result for this example would be 7000-6300 = 700#. This is the maximum vertical load that your TT can exert on the receiver. The TT's tongue weight should be limited to about 115% of this value. For this example -- about 800#.

7] Look on the truck's receiver for the "Weight Distributing" "Tongue Weight" rating. Use the smaller of this value or the value from 6).

Now, for your candidate trailer --
GVW{R}: 9,250
Dry Weight: 7,480
{Dry} Hitch Weight: 1,075 (about 14% of Dry Weight)

Let's assume you can hold the loaded weight to 8500# (1020# above the Dry Weight). The resulting tongue weight might be around 1100-1200#.

Given the assumed weight of "extras", the tongue weight would be 300-400# over the allowable. This points out why it is very important to know the weight of the "camping-ready" truck as a basis for determining how much TT it can handle.

If the maximum allowable tongue weight does turn out to be 800#, that indicates the loaded weight of the TT probably should be limited to about 6400#. To handle the trailer you have chosen, the GVWR of the loaded truck would have to be around about 5900-6000#.

Ron Gratz

---------------------------------------------------------

The approach used by Thomson is different. An independently suspended, AWD vehicle is likely best, not a truck. The better handling the TV, then the better TV it will be while towing. Trucks are terrible for wrecks, etc.

And so on.

But you'll want to set yours up in the standard way, first, no matter the hitch brand. Of ordinary low performing anti-sway hitches the REESE Strait Line "Dual Cam" is the best. But it needs about 400# TW to operate properly.

What's the TW on those trailers?

.

10-21-2010, 08:19 PM	#48 (permalink)
slowmover Banned Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 2,442 2004 CTD - '04 DODGE RAM 2500 SLT Team Cummins 90 day: 19.36 mpg (US) Thanks: 1,422 Thanked 737 Times in 557 Posts	It's interesting researching Hensley/ProPride history. Best two threads on the Net are from the Airstream enthusiast site, Airforums the ultimate haha users guide... - Airstream Forums the unofficial pp users guide... - Airstream Forums Now, whether you need one or not is up to you. The anti-sway works separately from the weight-distribution properties. A used Hensley can go for around $1200 or less on hitchtrader.com (or Craigslist) and you'd be pleased to have it. But it is more important to set up what you have properly in the first place, and that requires the use of a certified scale. There is a lot out there from him and it is interested reading. But I do believe I am weight limited for many reasons that have nothing to do with MPG. It might not be the 3500# that Toyota says as I am sure to be over that at some point. Let's say the TT added 0% to the aero drag, what's the weight limit for my TV? Can I tow 10,000#? You'd be surprised. TW is a limiting factor in my mind, but it's hard to argue with Thomson's approach and success. It's outside of standard ratings, but, frankly, they're not what they ought to be. We (self and others) who attempt to help others to set up their rigs default to manufacturer numbers. But it's not as if we didn't work with what worked, so to speak, in the 1960's and '70's. I think you can duplicate what CAN AM has done on a TV like yours with an otherwise identical trailer. But you need his hitch receiver (or plans) and need to follow his other guidelines (tires, shocks; speed of travel). I've seen him set up Cooper Mini's and Jeep Wranglers to tow Airstream trailers much bigger than yours. You must do the homework and understand that some TT's won't work. It's all in the hitch rigging, and in TV prep. I look forward to getting up there some day and paying them to go over my rig. The Visa has a torsion axle. Do you think that's damping enough? Yes, independent suspension trumps all other kinds. Adding disc brakes is the worthwhile upgrade. They are bias ply. I have been wondering if a better tire would be worthwhile? A truck tire "LT" designation is the other choice. I used LT's on mine. Bias is a mistake. Put 'em on Craigslist. Tire rating and wheel rating must be appropriate for trailer. Cheap trailers have a habit of bieng shod with barely adequate suspensions, tires, brakes. Worth going through. Some pics of your rig would be nice. Here's an example of a newbie asking if his truck can tow a certain trailer. Note how the question is answered. This is the standard approach for a crude TV and even more crude TT: EXAMPLE: http://forums.woodalls.com/Index.cfm...d/24482184.cfm I am new to this-hello. I am looking into buying a travel trailer. I have towed things like jet ski's, boats etc, but never a travel trailer. I am going to buy one this winter. I am having the hardest time finding one I like in the weight range I think I need to be within. My trucks specifics are this: 2009 Chevy Silverado 5.3 L 315 HP Z71 with the heavy duty tow package with all the coolers. Off road springs. Towing capacity of 9500-lbs. I am getting all kinds of opinions of how much to be under my capacity. Here are the specs of the trailer. I have a friend that feels you should be 1000 pounds under your tow capacity in the end and it has me nervous. Again, I am rated for 9500 and wil have the weight distribution/anti-sway set up. GVW: 9,250 Dry Weight: 7,480 Hitch Weight: 1,075 HELP................. -------------------------------------- 1] Load your truck approximately as it would be when ready for camping and get it weighed. This is your TV's GVW. Just for example, let's assume this turns out to be 6300#. 2] Find the manufacturer's Curb Weight for your truck. Let's assume this is 5300#. 3] Subtract the weight in [2] from the weight in [1]. For this example, the weight of "extras" (optional equipment, passengers, cargo, etc) which has been added to the base vehicle is 1000#. 4] Subtract the weight of "extras" (1000#) from the truck's "Maximum Trailer Weight" (MTW). For this example, the result is 9500-1000 = 8500#. This is the maximum that the TT can weigh when loaded for camping. It makes no difference if the TT's GVWR exceeds this amount as long as it is not loaded to more than the MTW minus the "extras". 5] Look on the truck's receiver for the "Weight Distributing" "Maximum Trailer Weight" rating. Use the smaller of this value or the value from [4]. 6] Subtract the TT's GVW from its GVWR. Assuming your truck's GVWR is 7000#, the result for this example would be 7000-6300 = 700#. This is the maximum vertical load that your TT can exert on the receiver. The TT's tongue weight should be limited to about 115% of this value. For this example -- about 800#. 7] Look on the truck's receiver for the "Weight Distributing" "Tongue Weight" rating. Use the smaller of this value or the value from 6). Now, for your candidate trailer -- GVW{R}: 9,250 Dry Weight: 7,480 {Dry} Hitch Weight: 1,075 (about 14% of Dry Weight) Let's assume you can hold the loaded weight to 8500# (1020# above the Dry Weight). The resulting tongue weight might be around 1100-1200#. Given the assumed weight of "extras", the tongue weight would be 300-400# over the allowable. This points out why it is very important to know the weight of the "camping-ready" truck as a basis for determining how much TT it can handle. If the maximum allowable tongue weight does turn out to be 800#, that indicates the loaded weight of the TT probably should be limited to about 6400#. To handle the trailer you have chosen, the GVWR of the loaded truck would have to be around about 5900-6000#. Ron Gratz --------------------------------------------------------- The approach used by Thomson is different. An independently suspended, AWD vehicle is likely best, not a truck. The better handling the TV, then the better TV it will be while towing. Trucks are terrible for wrecks, etc. And so on. But you'll want to set yours up in the standard way, first, no matter the hitch brand. Of ordinary low performing anti-sway hitches the REESE Strait Line "Dual Cam" is the best. But it needs about 400# TW to operate properly. What's the TW on those trailers? . Last edited by slowmover; 10-21-2010 at 08:43 PM..