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Cd · 01-16-2011, 12:33 AM

Thanks 3-Wheeler.
My Civic hatch is a 1993 model, so the ScanGuage will not work on my car.
Since I have a SuperMID, I will use Mikes advice "I used the 2nd km/l line on the SuperMID (the line that averages over the past 5 km) to get the mpg reading over the 2 miles."

Thanks for the advice guys !

Mike - I have another question that I'm too dull to figure out : In the video that was just posted above, It seems as though you stated that the caulking on the gaps doesn't need to be smooth because there is a thick boundary layer around the car that won't even blow sand off the top of the car.
( Perhaps I misunderstood what you were saying )
How do tufts ( tuft testing ) work if they are underneath this boundary layer ?
Also, if the boundary layer is so thick that it won't even blow sand off the car, why go through all the trouble of filling the gaps with globs of messy caulking if the air doesn't even reach this area ?
By looking at how far that your caulking protrudes, it seems as though it would actually cause more drag than just leaving the gaps unfilled.
Finally, was there some reason that you chose to not smooth the caulking as you applied it ?
No offense intended. I'm just confused.

Im really impressed with the strength of that Lexan that you used on the back window. How does it do compare to a glass window when the windows fog up ?

One more last question : While looking at your photo album, I noticed the vents that are inside the cabin and exit around the license plate. Can you please tell us a little more about these and their function ?

Thanks !

01-16-2011, 12:33 AM	#502 (permalink)
Cd Ultimate Fail Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Austin,Texas Posts: 3,585 Thanks: 2,872 Thanked 1,121 Times in 679 Posts	Thanks 3-Wheeler. My Civic hatch is a 1993 model, so the ScanGuage will not work on my car. Since I have a SuperMID, I will use Mikes advice "I used the 2nd km/l line on the SuperMID (the line that averages over the past 5 km) to get the mpg reading over the 2 miles." Thanks for the advice guys ! Mike - I have another question that I'm too dull to figure out : In the video that was just posted above, It seems as though you stated that the caulking on the gaps doesn't need to be smooth because there is a thick boundary layer around the car that won't even blow sand off the top of the car. ( Perhaps I misunderstood what you were saying ) How do tufts ( tuft testing ) work if they are underneath this boundary layer ? Also, if the boundary layer is so thick that it won't even blow sand off the car, why go through all the trouble of filling the gaps with globs of messy caulking if the air doesn't even reach this area ? By looking at how far that your caulking protrudes, it seems as though it would actually cause more drag than just leaving the gaps unfilled. Finally, was there some reason that you chose to not smooth the caulking as you applied it ? No offense intended. I'm just confused. Im really impressed with the strength of that Lexan that you used on the back window. How does it do compare to a glass window when the windows fog up ? One more last question : While looking at your photo album, I noticed the vents that are inside the cabin and exit around the license plate. Can you please tell us a little more about these and their function ? Thanks !