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Leighos · 01-26-2011, 06:09 PM

Thanks for the reply mate.

Thats some good advice for sure.

I have a boost gauge and usually drive just in vacuum and shift below 3000rpm, so you are saying allowing a bit of boost to develop would be more economical? I always thought anything below WOT was in closed loop anyway? Wouldn't an increase in manifold pressure equate to an increase in fuel delivery? Sorry I'm not an expert on this, I don't mean to sound ignorant

I have also toyed with the idea of fitting an AF ratio gauge, would it be worth while only using the narrow band factory o2 sensor though? I have a simple LED display gauge, but I figured it wouldn't be telling me anything useful, I'm already well aware that she runs excessively rich haha!
I'd like to run a little leaner when driving economically or cruising (safely leaner, if there is such a thing for a EJ20) but I'm running a factory v3 STi ECU set up (440cc injectors, 90mm AFM and a TD05H 'big' 16g) and that doesn't have a intake air temp input (i don't think?) so I was thinking of modifying the AFM signal, but yea need to do a bit more research before messing around with that.

I've also performed the split rail fuel rail mod when I did my single turbo conversion, but using two right hand rails with the factory FPRs. I still have a pair of left rails so I you think using an adjustable FPR is a worthwhile mod for economy, I just might give that a go.

I totally agree with you about the inter-heater. In fact I have heard many times that Subaru designed the bonnet scoop both to allow cool air in for the intercooler, but also allow hot air out when the car is stationary (like in bumper to bumper traffic in Tokyo!). So it makes sense that the air to air intercooler is going to heat up around town and decrease your overall efficiency. I'd really like to convert mine to water to air someday, I wonder though how the benefits offset against the difference in weight plus load on electrical system to run the pump?

So I take it you don't have Subaru anymore?

01-26-2011, 06:09 PM	#17 (permalink)
Leighos EcoModding Lurker Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: New Zealand Posts: 9 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the reply mate. Thats some good advice for sure. I have a boost gauge and usually drive just in vacuum and shift below 3000rpm, so you are saying allowing a bit of boost to develop would be more economical? I always thought anything below WOT was in closed loop anyway? Wouldn't an increase in manifold pressure equate to an increase in fuel delivery? Sorry I'm not an expert on this, I don't mean to sound ignorant I have also toyed with the idea of fitting an AF ratio gauge, would it be worth while only using the narrow band factory o2 sensor though? I have a simple LED display gauge, but I figured it wouldn't be telling me anything useful, I'm already well aware that she runs excessively rich haha! I'd like to run a little leaner when driving economically or cruising (safely leaner, if there is such a thing for a EJ20) but I'm running a factory v3 STi ECU set up (440cc injectors, 90mm AFM and a TD05H 'big' 16g) and that doesn't have a intake air temp input (i don't think?) so I was thinking of modifying the AFM signal, but yea need to do a bit more research before messing around with that. I've also performed the split rail fuel rail mod when I did my single turbo conversion, but using two right hand rails with the factory FPRs. I still have a pair of left rails so I you think using an adjustable FPR is a worthwhile mod for economy, I just might give that a go. I totally agree with you about the inter-heater. In fact I have heard many times that Subaru designed the bonnet scoop both to allow cool air in for the intercooler, but also allow hot air out when the car is stationary (like in bumper to bumper traffic in Tokyo!). So it makes sense that the air to air intercooler is going to heat up around town and decrease your overall efficiency. I'd really like to convert mine to water to air someday, I wonder though how the benefits offset against the difference in weight plus load on electrical system to run the pump? So I take it you don't have Subaru anymore?