Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenavy85
yeah i've looked through his stuff quite a bit (hence the statement of "doesn't look like a giant cowl induction hood scoop", like on his pickup (not knocking him, i have no doubt it works, just saying i need something simpler)) but not sure of what i could really do on the backside of my Jeep
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Sorry! Late catching up.
My impression on the Liberty, is that the Germans did a good job with the fore-body,the flow should be attached all the way to the rear, and as Frank has inferred,it's the huge turbulent wake you should be targeting.
If I had one,to begin with,I'd install a 2" receiver-hitch,buy a $59 cargo platform from Harbor Freight Tools and build a slide-on boat-tail,extending the body at least 24," with plan and elevational taper,with diffuser section.
If you do the first 24" real well,you can add on in the future for even lower drag."Plug-and-play."
If you get the tail "wrong," it will prevent maximum performance.
The reason for the blister fairing on the T-100 is to help reduce the pressure spike from the abrupt windshield eruption only properly cured with a $3,000,compound-curvature, GTP laminated safety glass replacement and all the attendant body work to integrate it.
Hucho informs us that once these hood/windshield areas are 'optimized' and we have attached flow,no further streamlining will reduce drag.And there are studies in his book which relate the validity of his comment.
I'm going for around Cd 0.10 with the truck and kinda going overboard.
PS,the mod your thinking about did nothing for my CRX at Bonneville.The boat tail did almost everything!