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FRANK LEE-
A- I realy dont care about grammer or spelling. I am one of those Texting people. I rarely use my phone to talk to any one. I have just adjusted to having 160 characters to supply my ideas with.
B- Intermittent concerns were my specialty at my dealership. The first to come to mind was an Escape with a malfuntioning starter. After it would warm up the starter would stop working untill it cooled off enough. Before saying this is in my head {It is in my head and thats where my memeory comes from so you are right about that} Take into concideration that I havent just worked on Fords, But they are what i focus mostly on. I have seen and experienced interesting and what seemed odd things happen to vehicles. For instance if the brake light bulbs in a 2008 f-150 are replaced with a set of LEDs the cruise controll will no longer work. The remedy is regular bulbs that a low voltage can be transfered threw for the abs module to monitor.
C-Ford's o9s09 recall did cause fires. I am using this as an example to express the danger in such a little amount of fluid can cause severe damage, so it is something to just keep an eye out for. The crysler example was to show that even new stuff can fail, As well it shows that its not just from the fill cap {My Ranger has a seperate resivoir connected to the pum via 2 hoses with clamps. clamps after time can fail from rust and stresses, i dont trust them 100%} Gm also had a liquid fire problem "GM said it was aware of five fires" And this was with the Washer fluid, from the fluid heating feature.
D- From Michelin "Most of the increase in temperature is in the tread area. There can also be some increase in the bead area since this is a flex point of the tire but more in the tread area.
We appreciate your business and thank you for choosing Michelin."
No matter what there is always friction between the road surface and tires when they meet. Low pressure creates most of the heat at the side wall since that is the part of the tire that is flexing. On a tire that is filled to Factory spec, the flex is mostly at the tread and that is where the temperature increases. With a tire that is over inflated {My definition is: beyond optimum traction, and dynamics for steering handeling and comfort} But we can go with over the tires rating on the side wall for this one, What happens is the energy is tranfered from the center treads straight to the rim. The bead temperature increases and CAN {Not always} warp the mating surface, later creating a leak from that sealing point. The other place that the temp increased is in the center treads. This creates an uneven hot spot and can lead to other malformations like a split belt in the tire. I have seen these happen from normal driving conditions, so its a good thing to take into concideration.
E- I was focusing on the required energy to beable to stop the vehicle when it comes to an increased diameter of the tire. The location of the force changes when contact is placed further out. It can be compared to installing a larger radius tire on to a vehilce. Such as lifting a truck and installing 35s on it. The braking distance is significantly increased and brake fade comes about faster. Glazing of the rotors if from the surface of the rotor at contact with the pads creating enough heat to make the metal in the rotor maliable enough to essentially smooth it out. Similarly to heating plastic and putting a thumb print into the surface. None the less placing the position of the surface of where the resistive energy is located increases the amount of torque required to slow down or stop it.
F- it seems as if you arent taking what i typed in previously into concideration. The spectrum that i see runs from stock to Seriously modified to an extreme. There are alot of people looking to find ways to increase fuel economy, Even Jim Bob with his 2009 Dualy Superduty with the diesel engine and a 12" suspension lift and 35" tires. We all know a little adds up to a bigger picture.
G- From my experence people that end up having that problem end up buying a new car. Especiall if the vehicle is worth $3000 or less, Insurance companys total them out if the cost for repair is over 1/2 the value of the vehicle. Curbs take out rims just as much as our potholes arround here, especially the curbs that are 12" tall. If any one is getting air their arent on a flat surface and it may indicate unsafe driving.
H- I have come to appreciate you reponses. I do enjoy a good debate. And I know i have responded with little maturity in response. For being rude, I do appolgize.
EUROMODDER
My truck rides bumpstops, i have to have a bit of give in my tyres. Ford says 30psi and 28 psi seems best for even tire wear for my specific application. I do understand that each vehicle is different.
There is a place that the locals arround here call 5 corners. 5 stop signs for each road for the intersection. It is always a big debate for students who are taking drivers ed in this county. {Sussex NJ} The signs were place there in responce to the ammount of accidents. There is also an intersection where someone ran a stop sign and T-boned a State trooper. After the Officer died they put up a stop lamp there. {This is what i reference to with rolling stops}
With the Ignition off, I think of a 2010 Tarus SHO. Push button start. So electronicaly reliant that it becomes 3 times the effort to program the new "Wireless key". The vehical sometimes requires disassembaly to start the process. I also think of an automatic and a bad battery. Plus its like an autostart in an automatic with the MYkey {Not a fan of those keys and remote starts}. The car shuts off when the key is placed in the ignition switch. It negates the puropse of the RMST, And doubles starter wear on those occasions.
Tire wear is also different from manufaturer to manufacturer. Even the sizes too. A 205/75/15 From michelin will have different dimentions from a cooper 205/75/15. It can be a balancing act from one to another. I am focusing on the OEM tires though. Some vehicles can handle it and others like a Ford Explorer with RSC will not. The explorers monitor the radius of the tire, from going straight to turning. The sensors are sensitive enough to detect mismatched tires and will cause transfercase engagement issues while going straight.
The glazing has always been a larger Ford vehicle with cheaper rotors than oem issue from what i have seen. From what i have seeni have concluded people get what they pay for. But times are tough and alot of people are having brake issues when they go to a local garage by what i hear arround here.
My 1/3 wear was at an extreme as indicated in that part of the post. On my truck setting the tires to 30 psi yielded me new tires at 14,000 miles. Adjusting to 28 psi in the front has helped me keep my tires till now {over 75,000 miles}I need to change them though since my wheel bearing went.
Riding Bumpstop is what i am doin and it is not a comfy ride. I deal though.
I do have to say you have taken the time to check your vehicles parameters and been responsible with it.
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