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This was probably covered elsewhere, but I didn't see it in this thread.
With the Audiovox aftermarket cruise (and probably others), if you set the sensitivity to the lightweight, high-powered vehicle setting, it makes it less sensitive to changes in speed, adding less throttle when you slow down and letting off less when you speed up. If normal cruise gets to full throttle at 3mph below the set point, with the alternate setting, it might not get to full throttle until it's 10mph below the set point. It's not DWL, but it's better than the default setting.
With an automatic transmission that doesn't lock up, using the ignition signal instead of the VSS will give you a little bit of the same thing, letting the car slow down more when there's more torque required and speed up more when there's less torque required.
If the vacuum throttle actuation isn't working very well, you can either put on a vacuum reservoir with a check valve or add a vacuum pump. Some older European cars used an electric vacuum pump to operate the cruise control because the relatively low-powered motors didn't make enough vacuum at highway speed to reliably operate the cruise. The pumps aren't expensive (used) and are easy to hook up.
The throttle lock is safe on a motorcycle because you can positively close the throttle, even if there's extra friction. In a car with a spring-return throttle, it would take an additional mechanism to make sure you can positively close the throttle if you lose control of the throttle lock.
Or just be ready to take it out of gear (or switch it off without engaging the steering lock) and pull over. Which isn't that hard if you're ready for it, but can be disconcerting if you're not.
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