View Single Post
Old 03-25-2011, 09:51 AM   #238 (permalink)
NeilBlanchard
Master EcoModder
 
NeilBlanchard's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maynard, MA Eaarth
Posts: 7,907

Mica Blue - '05 Scion xA RS 2.0
Team Toyota
90 day: 42.48 mpg (US)

Forest - '15 Nissan Leaf S
Team Nissan
90 day: 156.46 mpg (US)

Number 7 - '15 VW e-Golf SEL
TEAM VW AUDI Group
90 day: 155.81 mpg (US)
Thanks: 3,475
Thanked 2,950 Times in 1,844 Posts
I found that Elmer's Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive does not melt EPS foam -- this is great. It is also low-tack glue, so spraying both surfaces and then letting it dry slightly, may be the best bond.

I am epoxying the major gaps on the 1/4 scale model with Loc-Tite "Extra-Time" 60 minute epoxy, and it is taking at least SIX HOURS to cure. So it settles and smooths nicely, but it also leaks.

I bought 8 ounces (4 ounces of resin and 4 ounces of hardener) for ~$18 at Lowes -- is this a reasonable price for epoxy? Would this work on the fiberglass? I like that it is very low VOC -- it has virtually no smell, and it washes up with soap and water fairly easily.

Edit: I realized I left out some details on how I built the 1/4 scale model. I used a hack saw blade with a small handle to cut the sections to the edge of the paper cutouts. I used waterproof yellow Elmer's glue. The roguh forming was done with a small curved Stanley SurForm (which may be discontinued?) and a medium flat SurForm (about 6" long). These would very well on the flatter faces, and if you go "up" the steeper curved faces, so the corners are not torn off. Then I've used 100 grit sandpaper to smooth things. This seems to be as much as I'll need to aero test or fiberglass.

I'm going to aero test with leaf blower(s?) before fiberglassing, so I can modify it more easily. I need to buy a small (HD?) video camera to document the tuft testing. :-)
__________________
Sincerely, Neil

http://neilblanchard.blogspot.com/

Last edited by NeilBlanchard; 03-25-2011 at 09:59 AM..
  Reply With Quote