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Originally Posted by War_Wagon
The battery shows about 2 lines under full for charge.
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Then you probably won't see charging except when decelerating from a good speed - 30 mph or so. There's some demand logic in the system, so it's more likely to charge as the battery gets lower.
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I let it run for 15 mins or so as I was driving it around, but I don't know if that got it hot enough or not.
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My guess is not. Even with a partial radiator block, on a day near freezing it takes 5 miles or so of driving at 50 mph to get up into the 140 degree range. A note on the (pretty much worthless) temperature gauge: it'll show 2 bars when cold, at about 145 will suddenly jump to 5-6 bars, and won't change again unless you get into mountain climbing on a hot day and forgot to take the radiator block out. I recommend getting a ScanGauge.
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If the IMA battery is toast I won't get stuck will I? As in I should be able to drive around on just the 1.0L right?
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Yes, as long as the 12-volt battery is good. Even with the IMA system totally inoperative, you should be able to drive as long as the 12-volt provides sufficient current to run the electronics & spark. And even if the battery pack is toast as far as providing assist, it should still be able to run the DC-DC converter to act as an alternator.
Another good reason to have a ScanGauge: if the system voltage is in the 13+ range, the IMA is charging the system. As I mentioned earlier, you can see the occasional fault where the DC-DC shuts off for some reason (it's like it trips a circuit breaker or something), but they're easily reset by switching the ignition off for a second or two.