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slowmover · 05-08-2011, 06:52 PM

Obviously the same trailer can be towed by different vehicles with different mpg results . . but the more aero trailer can be towed by a wider variety of vehicles (think Airstream travel trailer where a 9k 34' triple axle can be pulled by a minivan with good results; see CAN AM RV and articles by owner Andy Thomson).

A 2000-2005 Dodge or GM turbodiesel will get the best fuel mileage, overall. But another TV may be even better with full-on aero work. The V8-366 GM is known for poor mpg.

Trailer towing -- with that big gap between trailer and TV -- means that aero treatment ought to be separate. Maximize the advantage for each vehicle, first. Work on obvious mechanical deficiencies: sloppy steering linkage, alignment (both vehicles), proper tire pressure, brake drag, etc. Number of steering corrections and brake applications per 10 or 100 miles is to be minimized. Also, set up hitch rigging according to weight scale readings. Set a baseline, with full record-keeping.

As for the trailer: a boat-tail makes the most sense for a single modification (with a nosecone), IMO. A sway-eliminating hitch (Pro-Pride) also maximizes any tendency to track less than true. The two will complement one another as the "natural" antisway of a barn door is reduced. This form of sway -- yaw -- is more pronounced than folks realize . . . the deadened steering of pickup trucks and driver inexperience/sensitivity mask the reality. Trailers with short suspension travel (nearly all of them) move around on the highway quite a lot over a given distance (in comparison to the tow vehicle) as the vehicle "compensates" for winds, other traffic, pavement, etc with side-to-side motions. And trailer loading should be weight-scale checked with wheel-by-wheel readings.

In example: I would do all and sundry to reduce internal tire temperatures. First, though, I need a way to monitor them [TPMS]. A windy day with ongoing steering corrections is going to show higher temps, obviously (for given terrain & climate). Centramatic balancers, shock absorbers, etc.

As to re-fuel: Trip-plan your stops in advance (MM or Exit #) and drive in stages. It's much easier on the driver which tends to help FE when all stops are known in advance. With my TT or your rig where ground clearance matters I may use GOOGLE Streetview or other to check ingress & egress at fuel stations. Most truck stop chains are accommodating in these terms, I find.

Again, the best baseline and records will best show any aero improvements . . alternately, they may mask them if not attended. Please don't assume any mechanical issues are moot due to young age or low miles. I'd check even the brand-new ones against the FSM.

Pics would also be great. Look forward to this.

.

05-08-2011, 06:52 PM	#16 (permalink)
slowmover Banned Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 2,442 2004 CTD - '04 DODGE RAM 2500 SLT Team Cummins 90 day: 19.36 mpg (US) Thanks: 1,422 Thanked 737 Times in 557 Posts	Obviously the same trailer can be towed by different vehicles with different mpg results . . but the more aero trailer can be towed by a wider variety of vehicles (think Airstream travel trailer where a 9k 34' triple axle can be pulled by a minivan with good results; see CAN AM RV and articles by owner Andy Thomson). A 2000-2005 Dodge or GM turbodiesel will get the best fuel mileage, overall. But another TV may be even better with full-on aero work. The V8-366 GM is known for poor mpg. Trailer towing -- with that big gap between trailer and TV -- means that aero treatment ought to be separate. Maximize the advantage for each vehicle, first. Work on obvious mechanical deficiencies: sloppy steering linkage, alignment (both vehicles), proper tire pressure, brake drag, etc. Number of steering corrections and brake applications per 10 or 100 miles is to be minimized. Also, set up hitch rigging according to weight scale readings. Set a baseline, with full record-keeping. As for the trailer: a boat-tail makes the most sense for a single modification (with a nosecone), IMO. A sway-eliminating hitch (Pro-Pride) also maximizes any tendency to track less than true. The two will complement one another as the "natural" antisway of a barn door is reduced. This form of sway -- yaw -- is more pronounced than folks realize . . . the deadened steering of pickup trucks and driver inexperience/sensitivity mask the reality. Trailers with short suspension travel (nearly all of them) move around on the highway quite a lot over a given distance (in comparison to the tow vehicle) as the vehicle "compensates" for winds, other traffic, pavement, etc with side-to-side motions. And trailer loading should be weight-scale checked with wheel-by-wheel readings. In example: I would do all and sundry to reduce internal tire temperatures. First, though, I need a way to monitor them [TPMS]. A windy day with ongoing steering corrections is going to show higher temps, obviously (for given terrain & climate). Centramatic balancers, shock absorbers, etc. As to re-fuel: Trip-plan your stops in advance (MM or Exit #) and drive in stages. It's much easier on the driver which tends to help FE when all stops are known in advance. With my TT or your rig where ground clearance matters I may use GOOGLE Streetview or other to check ingress & egress at fuel stations. Most truck stop chains are accommodating in these terms, I find. Again, the best baseline and records will best show any aero improvements . . alternately, they may mask them if not attended. Please don't assume any mechanical issues are moot due to young age or low miles. I'd check even the brand-new ones against the FSM. Pics would also be great. Look forward to this. . Last edited by slowmover; 05-08-2011 at 07:06 PM..