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Engine ... is from a CRX SI
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Overall, I'd try to ditch the motor and swap in an HF motor and tranny. I'm sure you could sell the motor and all the parts for way more than you'd pay for a HF motor and a complete rebuild.
That being said.
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Crane cams stage 2 (242@206 exh) 1500 rpm @ 7500 rpm,
AEM cam gear,
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Toss the cams quick!! They're probably terrible for FE, and probably don't idle worth beans.
Keep
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Head Man header CHIKARA 4, 2, 1, Thermo Rap,
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Keep, it probably won't hurt your FE, but I'd take the wrap off the headers, you actually want the heat in the engine bay.
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2 1/4 exh, Apexi racing muffler,
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Toss. Smaller diameter is better for torque/FE.
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cold air intake custom made,
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Toss. Get an OEM airbox or make an HAI.
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Holly fuel regulator, Hiper tech fuel pump, 16 gal fuel cel, fuel gage,
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It's fine to keep it all, but it's wayy overkill and you may be able to sell it for a handsome profit.
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(N2O) Nitrous wet system High Flow valve and blow of adapter with blow down tube,
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Toss. Nitrous is no good for FE.
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ZEX spark plugs, MSD 6AL, Two Step RPM limiter, MSD cap and rotor, Mallory coil, Accel wire set,
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It's fine to keep, but again, you could probably sell for a profit.
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Auto meter 5" tach with shift light, sunpro cages Oil and Air fuel mixture, Kurky's aluminum racing seat, 4 points harness, aluminum racing pedals and shift knob, B&M short shifter, Centerforce stage 4 dual friction clutch and throwout bearing,
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Keep if you like them, or sell for a profit.
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Matrix coil over strut bar front and rear, summit relocation battery kit.
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Keep. These will actually help your FE. The coilovers let you lower the car, which is good for aerodynamics, and the battery locate (assuming it's in the hatch-area) makes it easier to add more batteries for running your alternator beltless.