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Old 06-14-2011, 10:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
BamZipPow
T-100 Road Warrior
 
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: The Woodlands, TX
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BZP T-100 (2010) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 24 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2011) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyking View Post
I *think* you can stitch and glue the coroplast the same way, then glass it with epoxy the same way. I am going to give it a try on my first fairing on the 5th wheel trailer. It has an ugly fan housing and it is the perfect size to try it out. I hope to build it with just coroplast, epoxy and 4 oz fiberglass cloth. Use coroplast for the bulkheads as well.
It will be at least a month before I give it a try though.
I think you would have better success with mahogany panels and wood glue. 4mm Coroplast is rather difficult to bend in the right shape and gluing it up isn't much easier. I've tried silicone, polyurethane glues like Gorilla glue, hot glue, Gorilla tape, duct tape, and painter's tape. Mechanical fasteners seem the best method of keeping Coroplast in place in the long run. Tape/glue fer the short term.

Do a search on "recumbent bicycle fairings" and you'll git an idea of how they worked the Coroplast to their fairing.

Also, check out Coroplast containers and how they're constructed...like the USPS containers.
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