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Hi Paul, another test you can do is hook up the 12v power to the control board, and turn a 5k pot from 0 Ohms to some non-zero ohms. Don't hook up any power to the bus bars though. Put the positive lead of a volt meter on a gate resistor hole (GR1 through GR10), and the negative lead on PH1 or PH2. At 0 Ohms, you should see 0 volts. After giving it some throttle, the voltage should jump up, and then the LED should start blinking fast, indicating a fault. At that point, the voltage should go back to zero. It's a fault because there was maximum PWM duty and zero current.
As a side note, I never drill RT1, since it doesn't require any precision. I just do all the stuff that requires a mill. Pretty much everything that can be done with normal tools I leave to people to do. I also have never included a screw for U1, but that was just because I have never thought of it. Thanks for mentioning that!
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