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Old 07-26-2011, 12:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
oil pan 4
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 11,189

Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
SUV
90 day: 19.5 mpg (US)

camaro - '85 Chevy Camaro Z28

Riot - '03 Kia Rio POS
Team Hyundai
90 day: 30.21 mpg (US)

Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

Sub2500 - '86 GMC Suburban C2500
90 day: 11.95 mpg (US)

Snow flake - '11 Nissan Leaf SL
SUV
90 day: 141.63 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kir_kenix View Post
I've been following your posts on your Blazer with interest because
Originally I was looking for a blazer but setteled on a C10 suburban.
Feel free to copy all my mods. I listed every thing that did and didn't work, all the mods I have done and not tested and all the mods I plan to do like WMI and intercooled VGT.

"Just looking at the spray patterns of the IDI injectors, it leaves a lot to be desired".
Haha, what spary pattern? They shoot fuel out in a 0 degree stream.
Over on dieselplace.com they looked into the best temperature to operate a diesel fuel system at. The only company that had researched it was Cummins Marine division. They said the best temperature over all for the fuel system to be at was 70'F.
There is a guy on dieselplace that wrapped 2 or 3 layers of magnet wire on his injector lines to heat the fuel for cold starts and vegetable oil use.
It provided good cold start results. So not all "fuel line magnet systems" are garbage.

"the only downside is it may crack or come loose which can lead to engine damage".
This is the part I dont like. I may do the manifolds. If chips of ceramic come loose they likely wont hurt the turbo.
"It would coke up with soot after a while and reduce its effectiveness"
I am thinking the only part that would remain some what soot free would be the area that the burning fuel gets squirted against. That is the only part that really matters.
I also think that would be where the ceramic would chip away or wear away.
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