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Old 08-07-2011, 05:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
skyking
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Jim, I tend to apply the cloth to the structure dry, and wet through it with roller and brush.
This lets you position the cloth with no trouble, without any urgency. Skip to the 1'40" mark in this video for an example:


On an outside corner (convex) layup like your boat tail, I drape the cloth all the way across and let it hang past. I wet it out with a roller, brush, and use the plastic squeegee to get the bubbles out and smooth things. Don't worry about that hanging edge. You can't easily glass beyond that vertical surface. Hang the cloth just past the edge and don't worry about a little resin lost on the cardboard (you put on the floor before you started).
Continue adding cloth wherever you want, using fresh brushes and rollers with a new batch of epoxy as needed. Epoxy will become unworkable in 25~40 minutes depending on what you are working with. Old brush + new batch = bad times.
I get bags of 10 chip brushes from home depot and toss them.
For finish coats I do the same with foam brushes.
Depending on the resin system you use, come back in 4~6 hours and trim off that excess hanging cloth and resin with a knife. Much easier than sanding after it gets hard.
Once it is tack free, you can flip the part and lay up the other side. Keep adding cloth and resin for up to 24 hours. If you can't do that, after about 3 days you will have to sand before adding. That is a big pain and a step backwards.
Here is one epoxy manual with some good info:
Raka, Inc. 772-489-4070

Here is another:

System Three: Resource Library: Published Literature

Bending cloth across hard corners is tough. It does not like that and works better on radiused corners. Keep that in mind as you build your boat tail. The air prefers radiused corners as well.
Coincidence? I don't think so
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