[lasitter]

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

Just to get a perspective on things, we're talking about 2,356 mi on two 37.2 gal tanks. That equates to a 31.7 mpg average.

From my own experience with a modern diesel, I can tell you that you're really pushing things to go that far. I'm not saying it's impossible--just saying that it's going to be a real challenge (which is where the fun comes in of course!)

Completely true! The accomplishment has to be unlikely if you want to have any suspense for the people that tune in to watch a broadcast, which is the ultimate goal.

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

1) Driving mods

Most people underestimate the importance of these, but think about all that this might encompass. Driving under ideal conditions means ideal weather conditions, traffic conditions and with near perfect information. You never drive in the rain or into a heavy crosswind or headwind. You have the course completely mapped so that you know the location of every bump or patch of rough pavement in advance. That energy lost in the suspension can't move the vehicle down the road.

Having a lead vehicle a couple of exits ahead of you means you never get stuck in a pileup. You take an earlier exit and drive around it or park and wait for it to clear.

Temperature and humidity vary throughout the day, and if you know where your engine does best, then that's where you do most of your driving. You sacrifice driver / navigator comfort as needed or possible to avoid running the AC or traveling with windows down.

About speed: Driving 55 is harder than you think, because most people don't take into account the purposeful inaccuracy of the speedometer, which reads 1-3mph slow at 55mph. Automakers do that for liability purposes, but keep the odometer spot-on accurate.

I've used the GPS and determined that I have to drive at an indicated 57mph to run a true 55mph. You obviously have to avoid rush hour traffic if you want to keep your average speed close to your target speed.

One important driving technique I can't use is the "driving to load" technique, where you let the speed fall back going uphill to maintain fuel economy. When you're already traveling 10mph under the posted speed, its really hard to do that.

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

1) Driving mods

The old EPA was 48 average with a top speed of 60. I know I won't attain an average speed of 55mph if that's pretty much my top speed, but that is much more realistic that driving 40-50mph as was the case for much of the other well publicized coast to coast new truck effort. If I can do this driving 55mph whenever I can, I'll be able to hold my head up.

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

In keeping with your spirit of keeping low emissions, keep in mind that if you do pulse and glide either with engine off coasting or coasting in neutral, your catalytic converter will likely run at a relatively cold temperature where it functions very poorly. This doesn't affect your ability to pass an emissions test but would increase your actual emissions produced.

Excellent point. I don't plan to do much of this because the wind resistance tends to brake the vehicle too much anyway. But if there were a long 2-3 degree downhill grade ...

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

2) Engine efficiency mods

When replacing my tampered exhaust / cat, I installed low restriction versions of each, along with a complete mandrel bent stainless system. It will last longer than the truck, and does help some. The MSD ignition, side gapped plugs and K&N filter have also helped a little.

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

3) Aero mods

I've been considering the partial grill block. I'd love to see some pictures of an undertray for a RWD pickup. With the driveshaft I'm having a hard time seeing it.

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

The biggest aero benefit on a pickup is what's over the bed

I have a Fulltilt tonneau, and I think the Aerolid is a great design for some, but it doesn't fit my image of a typical "working truck". When the design changes to what you've suggested, I think it would easily be worth 1-2mpg over a standard tonneau.

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

4) Reduced rolling resistance mods

I've got mine rock hard already, and by selecting the wheels and tires carefully I knocked the weight down by 17 pounds per corner. I'm certain that has helped. As tread wear works its way down, there's less squirm and loss of energy there, so economy should go up. I really wished that LRR makers would just publish the CRR for a tire and be done with it. You're otherwise left with advertising claims that are hard to evaluate.

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

5) Reduced accessory load mods

I have the Ford Taurus 3.8L fan, along with a Meziere remote water pump. There are no direct bolt up replacement pumps for straight sixes (or maybe any sixes!) but there are very affordable ones for V-8s. The DC Controls unit by Brian Baskin does a great job of varying the speed of the pump and the fan separately as needed to accomplish the cooling. The remote pump works in conjunction with the stock pump to accomplish the coolant circulation, but we flattened some of the impellers so that the electric pump could do more of the work.

I can't tell you exactly what many of these mods did because I was fighting fuel leaks at the same time as making economy mods. I ended up replacing both fuel tanks and all the pump / sending unit stuff. I can't afford to go back and undo / redo everything to put a fine point on things, and don't have a dyno for the really precise BSFC stuff.

Other electric: I'd love to figure out how to delete the power steering unit and replace it with an electric pump one that I could switch on manually for around town driving ...

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

6) Geartrain efficiency mods

I have some plans next year for more in this area that I want to try for some longer trips.

Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave

P.S. You'll find a few pickup haters on this site

What kind of world would it be without them? Thanks for the kind words.