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Old 11-08-2011, 03:49 PM   #53 (permalink)
Diesel_Dave
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White Whale - '07 Dodge Ram 2500 ST Quad Cab 2wd, short bed
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Okay I did some digging on the MADS Electronics website (maker of Smarty), Mads Electronics - Smarty - CaTCHER - Dodge Tuning - Home. I've worked with the SmartyJr67ME before, but if I'm right you'd be using the Smarty06.

The Smarty06 has 9 "software levels":
SW # 0 : Half power
SW # 1 : 30 Hp increase, with added timing .
SW # 2 : 60 Hp increase, no added timing.
SW # 3 : 60 Hp increase, with added timing.
SW # 4 : 90 Hp increase, no added timing.
SW # 5 : 90 Hp increase, with added timing.
SW # 6 : 160 Hp increase, no added timing.
SW # 7 : 160 Hp increase, with added timing.
SW # 8 : 210 Hp increase, no added timing.
SW # 9 : 210 Hp increase, with added timing.

I assume SW #0 is what you've been calling the "eco" or "nanny" program, and SW #9 is what you've been calling the "fun" program.

All these programs are about increasing power (not necessarily FE). There are only 2 ways you can get more power: add efficiency and/or add fuel. I don't know what exactly is in the programmer, but I'm reasonably confident these programs primarily just allow more fuel to be sent. The exception being the programs with added timing. The added timing will boost the effeciency some. I can tell you that there is NO way you can get 210 hp increase from efficiency--that's additional fuel. Efficiency will probably buy you a ~10-15% boost in power at most. My guess would be that the +30hp program is just added efficiency from added timing without additional fuel. The ECM has a fueling governor in software that limits the max fueling at any given speed. My guess is that these programs just change the max fueling. That's how you would get a 1/2 power program--just cut the fuel in half. Honestly I'm not sure what you'd use the 1/2 power program for other that maybe testing your truck out after you've made some mod and you want to do a test run without really pushing the engine. It probably doesn't help efficiency at all--all it does it limit how high up in torque you can go on the stock settings (at least that's my guess).

Bottom line is this: all these programs are designed for getting more power out of the engine. Dude, you got a turbocharged 409 cubic inch engine--you don't need more power! Granted it's fun to play around with , but if we're talking about ways to improve your mileage, you can do just fine with the stock amount of power. Or even 1/2 the stock amount of power, as you've already found out.

Okay, so then how can you use the programmer to give you FE? That would be in what Smarty calls the "optional parameters". Here's the User Guide (see section 5): http://madselectronics.com/downloadf...6UserGuide.pdf
You can get yourself some FE mostly with advanced timing and perhaps a little more with some increased rail pressure. If I were you, for best FE I would stick with the stock program (Torque=1), then see what you can do with advanced timing and/or increased rail pressure. I would try stepping it up and seeing how it goes. Maybe try level 2 timing first. If all is well try level 2 timing and level 2 rail pressure. If that's still good maybe 3 timing, 2 rail pressure, etc. You can continue to use the "fun" program as-is, but that's my suggestion for the "eco" program.

Hope that helps...
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Diesel Dave

My version of energy storage is called "momentum".
My version of regenerative braking is called "bump starting".

1 Year Avg (Every Mile Traveled) = 47.8 mpg

BEST TANK: 2,009.6 mi on 35 gal (57.42 mpg): http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...5-a-26259.html


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