1A. .....dashed line,from cowl to nose,in between fender blisters is basically straight.
1B. I'll arc that plane, generous radius at the top.
2A. .....11.5% of canopy length.
2B. I'm at about 20%, but will try to get a little more length.
3A. Also,to minimize interference drag where the canopy and body actually join,a fillet which is 4-8% of canopy length (chord ) is best.
3B. I'm sure that if I were working in clay that I'd already have something like that built in there. I'll probably use some colored caulk on the next model.
Canopy/blister is 15 inches long if I extend a straight line, would like to get 16 inches. 1/10 of 15 inches is 1.5 inches, and half that or 5% is 3/4" R at this scale of 2"=1'-0".
I don't see myself adding more than half of the minimum recommended radius, on the model, this comes out to 3/8" R. or just over 1/4" (reaching glazing sill height).
Radius on other corners or plane changes will be about half of recommended radius as well. I'll explain in more detail later, these will be based on using the Monopan honeycomb material and their factory details.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4A. I like the leading edge plan view radii and plan taper at rear.Her heartbeat is strengthening!
[/QUOTE]
4B. Thanks, and I do realize that the greater these radii are the better they will be for aero, but I'm also attempting to keep the overhangs to a minimum.
EDIT:
Just a nice image which I didn't know where to put...........
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-t...tures-703.html