View Single Post
Old 03-12-2012, 09:40 PM   #46 (permalink)
rmay635703
home of the odd vehicles
 
rmay635703's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Somewhere in WI
Posts: 3,874

Silver - '10 Chevy Cobalt XFE
Thanks: 495
Thanked 863 Times in 650 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy47 View Post
I have a 2005 Miles ZX40. Step by step how do you hook up a ampmeter to check draw the motor is using while you are driving.
You don't;
I wired mine up with the shunt between the last battery and the controller semi permanently.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy47 View Post
I need a list of other parts I will be needing to complet this job. what size ampmeter do I need.
How big of motor and controller are you going to use? Mine is a 350amp 50mv shunt driving an old antique analog meter that I have velcro'd to my dash. I have a very similar setup on my 450amp comutacar.

I don't recommend electronic ampmeters, only ones that use a real shunt and use no real electricity to operate. (unless you want to log kw use)

This means you need

1. A 350-550amp 50mv shunt
2. A matched classic Ammeter that shows the range you desire
3. some 24 guage + wires to route under your drivers side dash through the rubber plug in the firewall.
4. A couple short 0/3 guage starting wires or welding wires to hookup the shunt between your last battery and the controller.
5. Something non-conductive and somewhat heat resistant to mount, tiestrap or tape your shunt under the hood in such a way that it won't move or jiggle much
6. Some velcro tape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy47 View Post
I will be changing it over to 72 v soon, where should I place the two extra batteries?
Behind the rear seat or remove the spare tire, hammer it out and put them in there, you will also need a cover then.

Your stock controller, contactors, DC-DC, etc can generally handle 56 or 60v of batteries as is without modification. You just need a way to charge (the stock charger has a 12v and 48v built in, use your imagination). I tested 60v and there wasn't much difference (aka 33/34mph from 28-31mph as-is) Depending on the specific controller you have, 60v of batteries may occasionally put you over the high voltage shut down if you try to drive instantly after charging, so don't do that if you test the free method.

Oh and your controller may blow up if you do this, but I never could get mine to do so no matter how I tried. So I have kept the $50 controller that came with the car, it forces my dad to drive frugally.

Cheers
Ryan
  Reply With Quote