Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryland
That was going to be my question, you did these tests with a stock ECU, not a JDM part, right? because it's the ECU that controls lean burn, the sensors on the engine are just telling it what the engine is doing.
For those of us who are a little fuzzy on what the different amounts of vacuum are, could you expand on the vacuum gauge readings and how that translates for those of us without a vacuum gauge.
|
You could use a vacuum gauge or scanguage and they both tell you engine load. 0 vacuum on a vacuum gauge would be 100% load on a scangauge. Most people say around 22 in vacuum is idle. So basically as you go from 30 to 0 that is basically engine load that you would see on a scangauge.
Quote:
With the P07-A01 ecu (probably all 92-95's) intake air temps are not a factor in switching to leanburn - at least down to ambient air temps of 20 degrees F
As long as manifold pressure does not pass that threshold of 4"hg it will stay in leanburn if the other abovementioned conditions are met.
Unfortunately, the later generations are severely emissions restricted.
|
Thats odd that they would add in IAT for HX. I have seen a few other people talk about IAT affecting lean burn on the HX so I know its not just me. Must be emissions, like you said. During those nights after it took me out of LB it would not let me back in. I had to do some EOC and then about a minute after turning on the engine it would go into LB for a short amount of time before kicking me out. When it kicked me out I was following all the parameters that allow lean burn on warmer days and for seemingly no reason it would just kick me out. Last night I tried various ways to "reset" the LB so that I could get back in without shutting the engine off. I found that if I went WOT for a few seconds and then went back to regular cruising LB would kick back in within a few seconds. I wonder if that is because the engine heated up a bit more, or if going WOT resets some function of LB.