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Old 04-22-2012, 12:29 AM   #38 (permalink)
RiderofBikes
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: kansas city, mo
Posts: 214

Pantry Boy Supreme (pbs) - '04 Volvo S80 T6 Premier
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Lightbulb Update!!!

K so i Finally found Coroplast in my area. After 7-8 calls later i wound up driving only 1.3mi to pick it up! haha, what a trip! I scrapped the wood idea and went head first into it this past monday.

Front and Rear underbellies.

All my local shops were busy so couldnt buy out a lift for an hour... Back was killing me for a couple days after. It's cool tho, im young enough to take the beating as everyone says! Must of been in and out under the car hundreds of times.


I'm forgetful sometimes and difficult with myself, and it just so happens i couldnt get into the groove that morning and remember everything i needed so trip after trip. It painstakingly was finished ...after 4 hrs...



Anyways, just a few details:

Simple Woodstock cutouts were placed behind the stock airdam,
Screwed through to hold in place. (1/2" thick x 3" wide)
Leaving roughly ~1/2" of room from the bottom line of dam.

Cut the Coro to length for Front section.
36" deep, Airdam width area 48", and for wheel opening/swingarm, no wider than 31" wide all the way back!
(trimmed panel for open lock to lock wheel movement and Contour to Airdam shape)


Screwed panel to the bottom of woodstock to match the airdam cutoff.


Undid the 2 small braces from frame to engine cross-bar. (Punched holes through Coro to match bolt holes for Braces, "sandwich" method)
Now that the end points were fastened, there was alot of panel movement in the middle, So... To reduce any panel movement.:


Cut Woodstock length to match inside distance of the Plastic Wheel Well Panels.
Was rubbing against engine block, so I cut a groove in the Stock to prevent any Hazards!
Fastened the Piece and screwed into place.

(Once in place, there was about 1" gap from panel)

"Stroke of genius", Yes... Simple fix, just use Spacers to fill in the gap!(used this concept to Temp fix 2 Motor mounts on previous car) But where to find spacers without running to store?


Used those extra Chinese Sockets with large enough holes to run a screw through into the wood. Panel Good and SOLID now.



Time for the Rear:
Used remaining 4'x8' sheet, cut off about 9" to shorten the length a bit.
4' width leaves about 1" or so between each tire, so no trimming was needed!

Cut out 2"x2"x4" woodstock/secured by woods screw+washer to be used for Anchor point (1/3 of distance from bumper to axle mounting points)


Cut small slits on the rear section(support pieces) on inside of mold.
Screwed down(Later redone with zip-ties)

Screwed Panel to Anchor Point(with its decreased distance to the ground, also acts as a bend point and to clear the Muffler)

The Rear Torsion Beam axle is a bit funky, and is the Lowest protruding object underneath the car, period. I was running out of time, and blasted through this... No where else was there an attach point available, and didnt have time to construct one either. So...

I cut the panel to reach the Front of the Beam, and ran Zip-ties around it "bonding" it with this movable part...

IT works and doesn't show any signs of sagging. It just simply bends/travels along freely with the Beam. Will figure out a better solution to this, next time im in the mood for pain again....


New art to go along with the new look of the car too.



EDIT: Pics are in!

Last edited by RiderofBikes; 04-22-2012 at 08:18 PM..
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