View Single Post
Old 05-02-2012, 12:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
Frankencar
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: United States
Posts: 60

GTI TDI - '91 Volkswagen Golf GTI
Diesel
TEAM VW AUDI Group
90 day: 61.23 mpg (US)
Thanks: 6
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
Grille block - Coroplast behind the grille. Nobody will see it.

Try water injection, it might work out for you. Remove the vacuum pump from the motor and grab an electric vacuum pump, pressure switch, and reservoir, or just switch to manual brakes. I can't remember how the AHU develops vacuum, but I believe it's the same as my old Golf D 1.6NA, with a vane pump attached to the oil pump. Open the lid, remove the vanes (they slide out) and put the lid back on, then leave about an inch of hose connected and screw a bolt into it, or remove the hose and put a cap on the nipple.

Boost will enhance the efficiency of the diesel. The KKK K03 turbo from a New Beetle bolts on and no intercooler is necessary for low boost, you just need to turn the fuel up to compensate for it. Don't turn it up until you see the haze unless you want more power, just get it to that point, then back it off slightly. You'll just be using less pedal when driving normally.

Electrical mods. You dont' need the radiator fan unless you drive in heavy traffic or let the engine idle frequently. Based on your current reported numbers, I doubt either is the case. If you want protection from overheating, install a tube with holes that will spray water at the radiator and another washer fluid reservoir/pump. If you notice the temps climbing, spray the water to insta-cool the radiator. If it happens frequently, reinstall the radiator fan.

If you don't use accessories frequently, consider an alternator delete and a deep cycle battery or two. Added weight, yes, but the draw removed from the engine will more than make up for it. If you do this, I suggest you pop start as often as possible to keep the starter draw off the system, and mind your night driving (headlights).

I'm fairly certain you don't have PS, but if you do, get rid of it. It's not necessary on such a light car. Best bet is to swap in a manual rack, but looping the hoses works as well. More weight lost there, as well as parasitic engine drag.

Advance the fuel timing. You'll get a more complete burn, more power, and better economy.
I like that behind the grill block idea - and I will want it to be easy to remove as this car isn't just for MPG - it's also my go-fast car.

I wonder if water injection would really help FE - I will need to look into that. I know it would help with charge air temps and allow me to run more fuel for more power though.

The AHU has the same style pump as the 1.6 NA - I wonder how much power it uses to build and hold vacuum. I suppose I could hook an electric motor to one and measure current draw loaded and unloaded to find out and then see if it's worth the trouble. Manual brakes won't solve the vacuum issue for me as I have installed a VNT turbo and it operates its vanes with vacuum.

The New Beetle is equipped with a Garrett VNT15 stock. the KKK K03 you are referring to is the factory turbo from this motor. I removed it and installed a KKK/Borg Warner BV43 from a European 2.0L 16V 170HP TDI. It's capable of supporting 25psi of boost through most of the rev range.

Radiator fan has never come on. And idling causes my temps to drop - I believe this is due to the unusually lean burn of a TDI at idle. I will be keeping the fans though. This is due to my frequent hard driving and the fact that it will be at the top of Pikes Peak and Mt. Evans this summer along with some other demanding situations. I can't see any advantage of removing them aside from saving the 5.6LBS.

I forgot to mention that I have addressed the Alternator issue as far as I'm willing to. removing it would be a bit more driveability-killing than I want. I removed the stock serpentine belt assembly that went Crank-Idler/Tensioner-120A_Alternator-AirCon and the V-Belt that went Crank-WaterPump-PowerSteering. I am now running a setup that uses the smaller 90A alternator as the tensioner. It goes Crank-WaterPump-Alternator. It is also manually tensioned and not as tight as VW had it. no slipping problems yet.

You are correct - I delted the PS pump when I removed the serpentine tensioner and A/C. It now has a manual rack from an 86 Golf.

The tune i have from TDTuning takes timing as far as my tuner (Mike) is comfortable taking it for the power and FE goals.

Thanks for the input Christ!
  Reply With Quote