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landsailor · 05-16-2012, 12:08 PM

approach to predict engine coolant temp with your listed factors. Might add humidity level, in-town/stop and go traffic, electric fan vs. full time mechanical fan vs. temp. activated mech. fan. "Hot" ambient temps equals my a/c on (around 15 hp loss) and activation of the temp. triggered mechanical fan(around 15 hp loss). I have to turn off air just to get away from a stop light. Total hp for the 2.5 L Mazda engine is 107 hp no acc.'s. Both fan and A/C 107-30hp='s 77hp for a 3400 lb(me and daily gear). Ouch.

Solution for me: full block radiator block and transmission heaters.Variable air intake block. I have a 2.5 foot "Super Bird" nose that is fully sealed to both the radiator and A/C "radiator" so that any admitted air is ducted directly to the radiators. I'm using an ABS cover plate that I move manually to admit none, some, or more air.

Goal: Regulate incoming air in summer temp's to keep mech. fan off and be able to use A/C in a pulse and glide manner. This includes stop and go and
highway speeds. Trial and error for the factors had allowed me to "figure" the opening needed. Don't have to change this much. Only takes 2-3 minutes to change the opening( four screws, loosen and move ).

Working well. As Leon Russell sang..." Up on the tightwire...on side is ice and the others fire..."

Future: Manual control from the driver's seat.

05-16-2012, 12:08 PM	#7 (permalink)
landsailor EcoModding Lurker Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Hot, Windy and Freezing Southern Plains Posts: 23 "Is that one of dem Storm Tracker trucks" - '99 Mazda B-2500 2wd extended cab 6' bed Thanks: 197 Thanked 9 Times in 5 Posts	I like your approach to predict engine coolant temp with your listed factors. Might add humidity level, in-town/stop and go traffic, electric fan vs. full time mechanical fan vs. temp. activated mech. fan. "Hot" ambient temps equals my a/c on (around 15 hp loss) and activation of the temp. triggered mechanical fan(around 15 hp loss). I have to turn off air just to get away from a stop light. Total hp for the 2.5 L Mazda engine is 107 hp no acc.'s. Both fan and A/C 107-30hp='s 77hp for a 3400 lb(me and daily gear). Ouch. Solution for me: full block radiator block and transmission heaters.Variable air intake block. I have a 2.5 foot "Super Bird" nose that is fully sealed to both the radiator and A/C "radiator" so that any admitted air is ducted directly to the radiators. I'm using an ABS cover plate that I move manually to admit none, some, or more air. Goal: Regulate incoming air in summer temp's to keep mech. fan off and be able to use A/C in a pulse and glide manner. This includes stop and go and highway speeds. Trial and error for the factors had allowed me to "figure" the opening needed. Don't have to change this much. Only takes 2-3 minutes to change the opening( four screws, loosen and move ). Working well. As Leon Russell sang..." Up on the tightwire...on side is ice and the others fire..." Future: Manual control from the driver's seat.