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shovel · 05-16-2012, 05:17 PM

I don't think wearing earphones/headphones while driving is a safe idea, because they can keep you from hearing safety cues around you (tires, horns, motors, etc ) that can alert you to hazards & give you time to make corrections to avoid them. Very loud stereos do this too, but at least they don't *block* the outside sounds.

Everyone has their own preferences in music listening, so it's hard to suggest a single ideal solution. Some things you can consider:

Improving your 'full range' speakers, enabling you to eliminate the subwoofer entirely (this is what I have done, using MTX TXC6.1 components )
Utilizing a molded resin enclosure, such as Thunderforms
If you have a trunk, you could use a "Bass Pump" type subwoofer configuration, which does away with the box itself - these require careful attention to crossover and gain balancing in order to sound good, but they do sound fantastic when correctly tuned.
Building an aperiodic enclosure using lightweight "Pro" (as in live concert reinforcement) drivers - this would allow you to make a very lightweight enclosure (less interior pressure means you can get away with much lighter material than 3/4 MDF), with a very lightweight driver... shouldn't be hard to make satisfying bass in under 10 lbs including wire - though the $$ is a bit prohibitive for that type of driver due to the cost of neodymium these days.

Another consideration for reducing both weight and alternator load is to use full range class D amplifiers for your full range speakers, as they tend to be much more efficient which reduces alternator load and reduces the overall mass requirement of their heat sink. Class A/B amplifiers tend to be 55-65% efficient (to produce 50w power, they would consume ~90w and turn ~40w into heat) while class D automotive amplifiers are generally between 70-90% efficient.

When shopping for speakers, try to find the highest efficiency (that is listed as a # of dB @ 1w/1m ) - for example a speaker rated at 93dB@1w/1m will be as loud when given 10 watts, as a speaker rated 87dB being driven with 40 watts. Most reputable brands list this specification in the basic product description. This can mean using a smaller amplifier, with the obvious weight and power draw reductions from that.

05-16-2012, 05:17 PM	#3 (permalink)
shovel Master EcoModder Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Phoenix Posts: 593 Thanks: 106 Thanked 114 Times in 72 Posts	I don't think wearing earphones/headphones while driving is a safe idea, because they can keep you from hearing safety cues around you (tires, horns, motors, etc ) that can alert you to hazards & give you time to make corrections to avoid them. Very loud stereos do this too, but at least they don't block the outside sounds. Everyone has their own preferences in music listening, so it's hard to suggest a single ideal solution. Some things you can consider: Improving your 'full range' speakers, enabling you to eliminate the subwoofer entirely (this is what I have done, using MTX TXC6.1 components ) Utilizing a molded resin enclosure, such as Thunderforms If you have a trunk, you could use a "Bass Pump" type subwoofer configuration, which does away with the box itself - these require careful attention to crossover and gain balancing in order to sound good, but they do sound fantastic when correctly tuned. Building an aperiodic enclosure using lightweight "Pro" (as in live concert reinforcement) drivers - this would allow you to make a very lightweight enclosure (less interior pressure means you can get away with much lighter material than 3/4 MDF), with a very lightweight driver... shouldn't be hard to make satisfying bass in under 10 lbs including wire - though the $$ is a bit prohibitive for that type of driver due to the cost of neodymium these days. Another consideration for reducing both weight and alternator load is to use full range class D amplifiers for your full range speakers, as they tend to be much more efficient which reduces alternator load and reduces the overall mass requirement of their heat sink. Class A/B amplifiers tend to be 55-65% efficient (to produce 50w power, they would consume ~90w and turn ~40w into heat) while class D automotive amplifiers are generally between 70-90% efficient. When shopping for speakers, try to find the highest efficiency (that is listed as a # of dB @ 1w/1m ) - for example a speaker rated at 93dB@1w/1m will be as loud when given 10 watts, as a speaker rated 87dB being driven with 40 watts. Most reputable brands list this specification in the basic product description. This can mean using a smaller amplifier, with the obvious weight and power draw reductions from that. __________________ Work From Home mod has saved more fuel than everything else put together. Last edited by shovel; 05-16-2012 at 10:07 PM.. Reason: Improved readability.