Quote:
Originally Posted by tortillasoup
So why don't you just re-hookup your o2 sensor then? Other thing you should do is reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for like 15 minutes so the computer can re-learn some of its functions. Also, you shouldn't have to remove the catalytic converter from the car for it to get good fuel economy. If your car has two o2 sensors, and the cat is removed, that too can affect fuel economy since the car uses the second o2 sensor for fine-tuning the fuel trims. When you're checking the grounds, be sure to measure from the point of interest to the battery negative terminal. To eliminate the most obvious point, be sure to clean up the battery ground strap, its nuts, bolts, washers, eyelits, etc, don't scrape any paint off but make sure the holes it bolts into are free of dirt or rust. From there you can get a better idea with the multimeter of how good or bad your ground resistance is. 1 ohm of resistance is 1 ohm too many!
I should mention that you should get your car back to stock as best as you can. After re-reading some of your posts, I realize that you have too many things on the car that aren't stock like the wrong distributor and whatnot. You should never have to advance the distributor too far in any one direction otherwise it potentially prevents the computer from doing its job of adjusting ignition timing properly. If you could get everything in your car working 100% like stock, 32mpg should be within range. Have you tried replacing your PCV valve? That's an easy fix on this car and its replacement can boost fuel economy by about 15% if it's clogged. Or how about clean the throttle body/idle control valve? Is your car idling at stock RPM with stock ignition timing degrees? I bet it isn't! All the check engine codes have to be gone if you expect to have your car perform optimally.
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I will try to reconnect the o2 sensor when i install the shocks. As for the cat converter i didn't remove it was never there when i got it and i only use one o2 sensor this car is obd1 and reads from the o2 before the cat converter. The ignition will need to check it out to see how far it is in timing, they are the same cause it was a little more advanced with the stock ignition.
The car has new pcv valve with gasket and even a new intake manifold gasket was changed on the car, it is all stock just the ignition changed and a cold air intake. I did a lot of maintenance to the car timing belt and all those components, spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, cap, the computer was repaired a year ago and the only code i get is from the o2 disconnected, fuel filter, motor oil and filter, auto tranny oil. Every nut and bolt is still stock on the car, the iacv was cleaned and the fitv was cleaned and adjusted for proper idle witch is at close to 1000 rpm i still have a/c and will keep it. Car has over 252,xxx miles on the clock i don't know if the engine was rebuilt in any time but that is something that will come sooner or later to freshening her up no smoke no oil consumption no water leak or consumption.