As far as K&N and the MAF go, I am basing my info off of what I have learned with the SVX, so I may not be entirely 100% correct. However I would still prefer to run a dry flow filter over an oil impregnated filter...Something about it just doesn't sit right with me.
Where can I find the fuel log on the site? Still getting my bearings on the layout of the forum...
I do agree that the factory tire pressures on the door jamb do seem low. I've always been taught that regardless of what the door jamb says on any car, that I should run 32 psi for the best balance between comfort and mpg, and that by going this route I can minimize excess tire wear. Obviously this doesn't apply for larger, heavier vehicles (like trucks, etc). I chose 35 psi as it won't increase the tire wear much more, and should yield better mpg than I am already seeing (or at least help)
Personally, I'm not a huge fan of ABS, and would prefer just to have a power assist system instead. And as far as traction, I've not had an issue yet (however it certainly isn't the SVX in that department, which felt better IMO).
From the info that I've found in my research, the ground clearance is closer to 8". I plan to do new KYB struts (hopefully in the fall), and may consider bringing it down a bit. But I would rather not change the ride height if I can help it (again, shooting for full functionality of the vehicle). Also considering a heavier sway bar and possibly strut tower braces to reduce body roll and lean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neen
I had a 99 Forester with the 2.5 and 5 spd...I would average 30 combined and maybe 32 on the highway.
The auto trans is your choke point on your Subi. I doubt mid 30s MPG on the highway (65mph plus) is attainable without serious re-gearing, trans swap with re-gear or engine swap to 2.2L with trans swap/re-gear.
Has the head gasket been replaced yet? If I recall the 97 2.5L is a problematic one.
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The previous owner swore 32 mpg highway on his 40 mile round trip commute to work. And it doesn't seem impossible. I think with the right aero mods and the right driving techniques, I should be able to nail down 35 highway.
Head gaskets have been replaced with the updated MLS gaskets. All of the 2.5l's had issues, just depends on the year what kind of issues (96-97 outbacks had problems with internal leaks due to the composite gasket used, 98-99 have issues with external leaks from the MLS gasket). Its also my understanding that the 98-99 (Phase 2) 2.5 had issues with wrist pins, connecting rods, and other internal failures. however I have the Phase 1 engine, and I believe this engine has either been rebuilt or replaced. I would like to put a Phase 1 4.11 ratio trans in, however that is yet TBD. Motor/trans swap will be a last mod if I decide to do it. The 2.5l wasn't my first choice, but given my limited budget and dire need for a vehicle at the time, this was my only option (since I insisted on sticking with a Subaru and AWD). I looked at buying a 97 Outback SUS that someone swapped an OBD1 1.8l into, but they wanted way too much money for the car. Given mileage, tranny problems, and other issues, they wanted close to $4000 and didnt have the title on hand.