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Old 07-30-2012, 12:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
Diesel_Dave
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Indiana
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White Whale - '07 Dodge Ram 2500 ST Quad Cab 2wd, short bed
Team Cummins
90 day: 37.68 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
I'll be looking forward to your regimen on testing as it should be the definitive statement about whether CAI is a help or no (by default, as others are more interested in peak [or, sustained] power output).
Right now my plan is just to keep my normal commuting--no special testing, although this is one mod that should be fairly easy to do A-B-A testing on, as I have the plug that essentially "reverses" the mod.

As far as the benefit goes, I've seen enough scientific data to say that the lower pressure and temps both do give a benefit, the question is how much. I suspect it's fairly small. Based on the data I've seen, I'm guessing 1-2% or less. It's really hard to measure those kind of differences in real-world testing without advanced equiptment. If I did do A-B-A testing, I can hook up my OBDWiz software to monitor the intake temps.

I also suspect that this may be of slightly more benefit to me in terms of mileage than some others because I've blocked off my grille--my charge air cooler can't be as effective, and my underhood temps are higher as well. Anything I can do to get some cooler, fresher air should help. I've also given some thought to putting some heat wrap on the pipe from the air box to the compressor and the pipe from the charge air cooler to the intake to cut down on the re-heat.


Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
I decided against any CAI as the engine fan can pull a tremendous amount of dust into the air (vehicle solo), and any off road parking or driving, solo or in tandem with other vehicles, raises far too much dust for me to want to ever introduce more to the air box. Were I to use a CENTRI air pre-cleaner I'd want it above the level of the headlights, maybe recessed in the hood in some manner as with a NACA duct. But underhood plumbing then becomes a problem.

I don't travel off paved roads for any distance, but park the vehicle -- both at home and at work -- on unpaved surfaces.

The factory method of taking incoming air from fender interior panels means that much if not most dust has fallen out . . but fine dust on the air filter is a given.

I have seen where some have weighed the filters before and after as a "method" of trying to determine efficacy versus pressure drop.

This said, I hope you'll pull the flex boots both up and down stream of the turbocharger as a check for dust prior to prolonged testing.

- Are you using the revised MOPAR 4" deep pleated air filter in the otherwise unmodified airbox?
Given what I know about where you drive, I don't think I'd recommend one for you. Dust, water, bugs, etc. plugging up my air filter is my biggest concern with this mod. I've heard of some people having some issues with this, but nobody can provide me with much info on what type of conditions they were driving in.

Right now I'm still using the air filter that was in the truck when I bought it. I assume it's the MOPAR filter, but I'll have to check. I've heard the WIX filters are pretty good, but I've still got to research what my next filter should be

Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
- Will other entry points to the air filter be sealed?
For now, I've left the existing air box inlet as it was, although, I may see what happens if I block it off. I suspect if I closed it off, I'd have a disadvantage (at least in terms of pressure) when my vehicle speed is low--which it typically is . This is because the engine will now have to suck it up the pipe before the air box. So I left it open. The only way where I see that could be a disatvantage is when the vehicle speed is so high that there's so much ram air that the pre-filter airbox pressure is actually above atmospheric and the flow will go out the stock airboc entrance. Frankly, I think I'd really have to be moving fast for that to happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
- Is the airbox "pressure drop" gauge still acting (takes little to damage them), and will it be used to help determine air filter service life?

- Will air temps at the filter be monitored?
By "pressure drop sensor", I assume you mean the "Filter Minder", or are you talking about the electronic ECM sensor? I do have a Filter Minder, but I'm not sure if it works--I've never seen it move at all. I may be able to pull the airbox temp with OBDWiz, but I'm not sure.


Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
- What do you think about induced turbulence . . where pressure at one area on the filter panel might be increased? Or [worse] at the edge seal?

- Ever looked at the TAG? Used ahead of the t/c generally, I wonder if it wouldn't have some upstream, not just downstream effects (probably too hard to quantify). Same for DPP Coolhose (see AH64ID and at linked site).

Comments online from those who design compressor housings/installations have favorable opinions about air flow turbulence "correction" (and design laws) such as the TAG (whether or not it is effective for a CTD; the TAG and Coolhose both on my list to try [more restrictive air flow on an '04 compared to factory improved 6.7L intakes]).

- Would you be averse to drilling some water drainage holes in the lower assembly? I have not yet ever seen an OEM cold air intake assembly without such.

Good looking work. Yeah, paint it.

.
I don't expect any turbulence issues. Turbulence is an issue going into the compressor--not into the filter. I think whatever turbulence that goes into the filter will all get "washed out" as it passes through the filter. All the products that you mention are for pre-compressor, not pre-filter (I believe).

As far as water holes go, I'm just going to keep an eye on it and see how it does. There's a ~15" vertical rise from the fog lamp hole up to the filter, so unless there's a lot of water, I wouldn't think much would got all the way up...but I'll have to see. On my setup, it's also continuously "down-hill" towards the bumper, so the water should run out (if it's not being forced upwards). Frankly, I'm not sure how much help the holes do--if there's enough flow to carry the water up to the filter, then it's not going to fall down to exit through the holes.
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Diesel Dave

My version of energy storage is called "momentum".
My version of regenerative braking is called "bump starting".

1 Year Avg (Every Mile Traveled) = 47.8 mpg

BEST TANK: 2,009.6 mi on 35 gal (57.42 mpg): http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...5-a-26259.html


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