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slowmover · 08-27-2012, 07:48 AM

Ever since this thread appeared I've been looking forward to re-reading it and going over some of the changes made from stock configuration (that apply to most any year of CTD; and to most any diesel pickup; to most any other pickup; to other vehicles, etc).

We've covered some or most of the below in either threads or posts. Perhaps links to those threads or posts might be of help to others (as Americans love to shop), but a focus on "stuff" wasn't how the numbers were made, that was discipline and skill.

Smarty Jr tuner: fuel economy tune, most advanced timing

I can see the advantage of this, but have since learned that the ECM is "locked" by Smarty tuning. Even removing it still leaves their version of the OEM "tune" versus the genuine factory item. I'm holding out for EFI-Live when it becomes available for the '03-'05 CTD, and the person who can write tunes for longevity/economy. Leaving the engine stock just means that emissions, not economy, engine timing advance is in place.

Upper grille block
Lower grille block

So the engine cooling is via the "gap" from grille to bumper cover, and bumper opening, correct? This was DIY, IIRC. No longer a winter front installed under the hood and adjusted?

Tires at 75 psi (max sidewall is 80 psi)

I've forgotten what brand/size are your tires. And, high pressure like this is rather a way of "pre-heating" them, in a manner of speaking. Have you tried lower pressures? (What is the door placard recommendation?) I recently weighed my CTD on all four corners (at 7,950-lbs, but within 40-lbs at all four corners interestingly), but haven't yet been to a MICHELIN dealer to check the RMA book to see what the LTX A/S needs as to load percentage versus CapriRacers advice on pressure rise after 1.5-hrs of steady state driving [no more than 3-5 psi pressure rise in that time]. Whatever my changes I'd like to keep in mind how much "over" I may be. I currently run 55-psi FF and 60-psi RR (stock, at 6,860-lbs, is 50FF & 50RR)

1] Engine blanket
2] Using block heater to pre-warm
3] Dual 150W oil pan heaters

AH64ID notes that 90-minutes of on-time equates to 90% of full warm, IIRC. Is this your practice? Will the trans and differential also receive heaters?

Tonneau cover

Hard or soft?

Engine oil: Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 HDD
Differential oil: Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic Extreme Pressure Gear Lube 75W-90

I believe you quantified this as being a notable change in another thread. Is the transmission slated for a "fluid upgrade?"

Homemade ram cold air intake

Also a separate thread.

This thread just might be the place to end one level of work (as you've suggested above). Thus linking the previous threads and posts in re this truck & driver would be a handy point of departure for others (and not simply on what I've pulled out for clarification).

As an endnote I am pleased to see that my seat-of-the-pants recommendation to others about maintaining 27-mph or higher (yours, 26.1 mph) as an average is critical to best overall mpg. FYI to others: the CTD is a 10,000-hour engine, and that is predicated on about a 35-mph average, overall (which is difficult for metro owners), but even a semi tractor trailer only averages about 50-mph for all miles travelled in long distance work; an industry average.

High fuel economy is great, but longest life is even better. So, when the fuel burn per mile is also lowest for the work performed, the drivetrain, the suspension, the tires, etc, . . all is preserved for the next mile when reasonable limits are applied to achieving one goal (mpg), and not so altering the vehicle as to limit the ability to work.

.

08-27-2012, 07:48 AM	#45 (permalink)
slowmover Banned Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 2,442 2004 CTD - '04 DODGE RAM 2500 SLT Team Cummins 90 day: 19.36 mpg (US) Thanks: 1,422 Thanked 737 Times in 557 Posts	Mech Mods Ever since this thread appeared I've been looking forward to re-reading it and going over some of the changes made from stock configuration (that apply to most any year of CTD; and to most any diesel pickup; to most any other pickup; to other vehicles, etc). We've covered some or most of the below in either threads or posts. Perhaps links to those threads or posts might be of help to others (as Americans love to shop), but a focus on "stuff" wasn't how the numbers were made, that was discipline and skill. Smarty Jr tuner: fuel economy tune, most advanced timing I can see the advantage of this, but have since learned that the ECM is "locked" by Smarty tuning. Even removing it still leaves their version of the OEM "tune" versus the genuine factory item. I'm holding out for EFI-Live when it becomes available for the '03-'05 CTD, and the person who can write tunes for longevity/economy. Leaving the engine stock just means that emissions, not economy, engine timing advance is in place. Upper grille block Lower grille block So the engine cooling is via the "gap" from grille to bumper cover, and bumper opening, correct? This was DIY, IIRC. No longer a winter front installed under the hood and adjusted? Tires at 75 psi (max sidewall is 80 psi) I've forgotten what brand/size are your tires. And, high pressure like this is rather a way of "pre-heating" them, in a manner of speaking. Have you tried lower pressures? (What is the door placard recommendation?) I recently weighed my CTD on all four corners (at 7,950-lbs, but within 40-lbs at all four corners interestingly), but haven't yet been to a MICHELIN dealer to check the RMA book to see what the LTX A/S needs as to load percentage versus CapriRacers advice on pressure rise after 1.5-hrs of steady state driving [no more than 3-5 psi pressure rise in that time]. Whatever my changes I'd like to keep in mind how much "over" I may be. I currently run 55-psi FF and 60-psi RR (stock, at 6,860-lbs, is 50FF & 50RR) 1] Engine blanket 2] Using block heater to pre-warm 3] Dual 150W oil pan heaters AH64ID notes that 90-minutes of on-time equates to 90% of full warm, IIRC. Is this your practice? Will the trans and differential also receive heaters? Tonneau cover Hard or soft? Engine oil: Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 HDD Differential oil: Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic Extreme Pressure Gear Lube 75W-90 I believe you quantified this as being a notable change in another thread. Is the transmission slated for a "fluid upgrade?" Homemade ram cold air intake Also a separate thread. This thread just might be the place to end one level of work (as you've suggested above). Thus linking the previous threads and posts in re this truck & driver would be a handy point of departure for others (and not simply on what I've pulled out for clarification). As an endnote I am pleased to see that my seat-of-the-pants recommendation to others about maintaining 27-mph or higher (yours, 26.1 mph) as an average is critical to best overall mpg. FYI to others: the CTD is a 10,000-hour engine, and that is predicated on about a 35-mph average, overall (which is difficult for metro owners), but even a semi tractor trailer only averages about 50-mph for all miles travelled in long distance work; an industry average. High fuel economy is great, but longest life is even better. So, when the fuel burn per mile is also lowest for the work performed, the drivetrain, the suspension, the tires, etc, . . all is preserved for the next mile when reasonable limits are applied to achieving one goal (mpg), and not so altering the vehicle as to limit the ability to work. .