Quote:
Originally Posted by arcosine
I closed the mouth on my Saturn, I moved it up with a nice contour on the belly pan. The yellow coroplast belly pan was brittle and cracked, so I replaced it with white. It should get better flow under the car. I'll test it on the foxhunt tonight. The vacuum line to the hot air intake valve got brittle and broke also, but with 90F temps I don't need it too much.
... Not enough air flow, engine temp kept creeping up on interstate. Opened it up some, now temp right around half way. Seems to be less wind noise and over speeds on down hill slopes.
I wonder if it would be better to have the air inlets open on the ends and closed in the middle. This would divert some air from around the front wheels.
I think the front looks much more aero.
I wonder if a metal plate as the bottom belly pan with cooling tubes soldered to it could replace the radiator.
Maybe taking off the insulation on the hood would reduce under hood temperatures.
was Before:
now, After:
Notice the aero licence plate holder:
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*with the inlet at the center,you're at the forward stagnation point where the ram pressure is highest.If you were to move the opening over to the side you'd be within the corner radius,where air is accelerating and losing static pressure.It possible that air would actually flow out of the hole,not in.This happens on the oval opening of the 1st-gen Ford Taurus.
*There is a modern truck tractor which has no radiator,but rather cooling 'pods' which may be using this non-aspirated heat-exchanger.
Ford's Probe-IV had a bit of 'heat-sink' tubing type exchanger between the forward engine,and rear radiator.Research has progressed for ceramic engines which would have no cooling system whatsoever.
*the insulation under the hood may have been a result of the 'Noise/Vibration/and Harshness' work done on the car.Once your up to speed,there's probably so much volume of air moving through the engine compartment,that the acoustic blanket under the hood wouldn't make any difference in regards to engine heat.