[car guy]

I’m 62 and my family of 4 kids and wife have owned a lot of cars. Here’s some empirical “truths” I’ve developed over the years.

Measure pressure when COLD, not after driving, but first thing in the morning. There are 2 tire pressure recommendations on any car:
1) Car manufacturer sticker located on the "B" pillar (between front and rear doors on driver side). This is the pressure recommended for the original tire size (e.g. 205x50x16) which is also on this sticker. This is for "best ride characteristics”… suspension is tuned for this setting. My opinion, this doesn’t result in best mileage or wear.
2) Min – Max pressure on the tire sidewall. Tire manufacturer rating based on tire construction.

I set cold pressure exceeding tire max on sidewall by 5%, especially front tires, where all the weight is. Why? When driving, tire sidewall flexes (squashes) between road surface on each revolution, causing heat. More pressure = less squash = less heat. Heat is calories (energy) and all energy comes from gasoline. I believe I get better mileage. I have never had a blow-out. Heat also warms the rubber and therefore accelerates wear.

I’ve never experienced over-inflation, center tread wear to any measureable degree. Tires wear on edges because each turn causes the outside tire to roll under to some degree. More pressure reduces “roll under” and therefore reduces edge wear. I suspect that if I only traveled in a straight line at 70 mpg, center tread wear might become evident.

So I feel the bumps a little more but save cash on tires and gas. In the spring with the new pot-holes, they get a little extra. I've never bent a rim for broken a cast mag.

I only rotate tires front / back on the same side; never changing the rotational direction. In 1979 I had a pull develop in the steering wheel. An old tire guy told me radial tire casings shift under the tread against the direction of the pull. If the tire is placed on the other side of the car the casing has to shift back. Sometimes the tread separates from the casing when this "reverse shift" occurs. I've learned a lot over the years by listening to old car guys. If you do not rotate every 5000 miles, then don't cross-rotate. I'm sure radial design has improved since 1979, but ya can't teach an old dog new tricks.

Just another opinion, if you get my meaning.