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Old 09-14-2012, 05:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
slowmover
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 2,442

2004 CTD - '04 DODGE RAM 2500 SLT
Team Cummins
90 day: 19.36 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave View Post
First off, welcome to the site!

It's not that sexy, but in my opinion, the first step that you need to do is start keeping a good fuel log (if you're not already--I see you have one fill already on your fuel long on this site).

Another thing that I would consider a "must" is getting some kind on real-time fuel economy feedback. I'm guessing the stock truck doesn't have anything. Most folks around here will attest to the fact that driving mods will typically buy you more fuel economy that vehicle mods will. Of course with an auto tranny, you'll be more limited, but I think you'll be shocked how much you can improve things with driving mods.

After you get some good record-keeping, just start making one mod at a time and you'll start seeing progress.

Good luck!
Nothing less than all gallons, all miles is acceptable, IMO, when it comes to record keeping. One needs to know average mpg and to correlate against average mph (etc) to, in the end, chart the percentage decrease in fuel burn for the work (as one way of making money by understanding the numbers generated by vehicle use).

I see that this is not the daily driver. That gives one the elbow room to trip plan every moment of engine-on time. Routing for best use of fuel, etc. Higher mpg is a nice achievement, but lowest fuel burn for work accomplished means more with a truck (as conditions may be different every time: load, temps, way & end points, etc).

The V8-496 is popular with RV'ers, not just contractors, so there will always be a buyer out there for an extra-clean vehicle that shows well (steam clean & paint chassis where applicable; detail interior, etc) so don't forget that someone may want to buy it off of you at any given stop (and that might help fund the exact vehicle you want in the future). It's a good place to start (after weighing vehicle on a CAT Scale with driver & full fuel when otherwise empty). KENWORTH and CUMMINS both make points about alignment, brake drag, and steering wander for mpg purposes. Assume nothing is right, and make them perfect. These are the places to start, IMO. You'll make more "money" fixing any steering wander than with any other repair/change/modification.

Next would be electric heaters for the various fluids (as used in northerly climes) as reduction of warm-up time/distance is vital with big motors & heavy vehicles for any climate & season. (Threads around here to read).

Aero is great, but focus on the "regional metro" mechanical stuff first, IMO.

Used as a business tool -- no "engine-on" time that is not already pre-planned in all respects -- and with proper records one can reduce the fuel cost per mile of operation. Cents-per-mile is the calculation one needs to find and understand (AAA plus EDMUNDS are beginnings) as fuel cost is only one entry among many others. The first step in this is in deciding how long will keep the vehicle, and over how many miles. No work vehicle (that either earns income or offsets income) can be put into perspective without a decent guess at time & distance. One needs records to do any meaningful gains (tools of analysis).

My fuel cost is 15-cpm solo, and 25-cpm towing, but the "real" CPM is nearer 50-cpm when all is taken into consideration. While my life has changed in the years since I bought it, the overall high mpg kept it relatively cheap to own (no repairs, either, beyond paltry expenses) and as I am now an "RV full-timer" it is more accurately understood as being part of my home, not just as personal transportation (so energy consumption: electric, propane, diesel are all calculable for budgetary reasons). Example: I allow for a certain amount of "idle time" due to the climate here (hot/humid) and look to keep my average mph at/above 27-mph which keeps my overall fuel consumption within bounds. (And "my home" will change in all operating respects at some point: climate, terrain, use, etc). The balance of energy inputs will change given job, locale, etc. The vehicle is not separate (and the awards go to those who do not need a mortgage to include garages, parking space, etc).

Work vehicles are about predictability. Being able to predict fuel burn accurately is the soul of use for a single operator. Here is an example.

(And pics are always nice!)

.

Last edited by slowmover; 09-14-2012 at 05:16 PM..
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