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PaleMelanesian · 10-17-2012, 04:46 PM

I used his testing as an incentive to try some new things. It seems to work for me, so I'm going to keep doing it the new way.

Matt:
TPS is related to LOD but less useful. To get 80% load at low rpm doesn't take much throttle opening at all, while at higher rpm you really have to bury the pedal. LOD is a constant target no matter what rpm you're running.

Engine braking is good IF you have to brake. If you can plan ahead and coast to a stop, that's better. If a light changes or a traffic event forces you to bleed off speed, engine braking is good. Above 1200 rpm, our cars shut off the fuel completely, letting the wheels drive the dead engine. When it gets below 1200 it turns the injectors back on to avoid stalling.

10-17-2012, 04:46 PM	#39 (permalink)
PaleMelanesian Hypermiler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 2,321 PaleCivic (retired) - '96 Honda Civic DX Sedan 90 day: 69.2 mpg (US) PaleFit - '09 Honda Fit Sport Team Honda Wagons 90 day: 44.06 mpg (US) Thanks: 611 Thanked 434 Times in 284 Posts	I used his testing as an incentive to try some new things. It seems to work for me, so I'm going to keep doing it the new way. Matt: TPS is related to LOD but less useful. To get 80% load at low rpm doesn't take much throttle opening at all, while at higher rpm you really have to bury the pedal. LOD is a constant target no matter what rpm you're running. Engine braking is good IF you have to brake. If you can plan ahead and coast to a stop, that's better. If a light changes or a traffic event forces you to bleed off speed, engine braking is good. Above 1200 rpm, our cars shut off the fuel completely, letting the wheels drive the dead engine. When it gets below 1200 it turns the injectors back on to avoid stalling. __________________ 11-mile commute: 100 mpg - - - Tank: 90.2 mpg / 1191 miles