Quote:
Originally Posted by ttoyoda
I take it then you have never had to change the clutch in a 1980s?? vw rabbit? With those idiotic double hex socket screws to take off the halfshafts? And a gaggle of identical looking but subtly different pieces of round tubes with the ends smushed flat bolted in all over the place as braces? Lucky You!
Beautiful job documenting what you did. It seems like the springs in the friction plate were rubbing on something just because the friction surface was worn down? But the old friction plate is not worn down to the rivets yet? If thats correct, this is a crazy design for a clutch.
Also, to remove tapered ball joints or tapered tie rod ends, remove the cotter pin, unscrew the nut until the castles on the nut are just out past the end of the stud. I mean just barely. Now put a hammer head into your air hammer, press it hard against the end of the stud/castle-nut, and give it a quick burp. It will separate in less than a half second.
hammer head is here:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
It has to be cheaper somewhere else.
All that said, the manual on my alltrac wagons says to normally unbolt the balljoint plate, so I usually only use this on tie rod ends, and on the ball joint when changing out wheel bearings. |
lol, can't say I have. Sounds like an experience though.
Thanks
huh gotta give that a shot next time I need to take it apart
Yeah on the Camry it was the same deal, unbolt the ball joint plate, with the Honda it was just pop it off the stud since it doesn't use a plate. The plate is much easier.