Quote:
Originally Posted by ctgottapee
I have seen that people who do PS deletes T that line and put some sort of breather on it. That way you don't have to steer against the pressure of the looped hose, but still can keep some fluid in there
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Thanks for the suggestion. I will eventually put a tee in that hose and run another hose vertically as some sort of a breather....we'll see.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pete c
Great job so far. I have a suggestion for heat.
You are currently using precious electrons to generate it. Meanwhile, you have a fairly hot motor under the hood. Why not get a length of fairly small diameter flexible copper tubing and wrap that motor, good and tight. Cover it over with fiberglass batt insulation. Install a small 12v circulator pump and run the coil directly to the heater core. I would leave the resistance heating in place for when it is needed (sitting in traffic or at start up).
During thw warm weather either remove it or add another heater core somewhere under the car to bleed off the heat.
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The motor doesn't get hot enough for that. After my commute home up the hill I can hold my hand on the motor case and commutator/brushes. They aren't cold by any means, but not hot. It has also been suggested that I direct cooling fan air into the cabin. This I feel is not a good idea because with all the arcing and whatnot going on at the commutator, I'm pretty sure the air going through there wouldn't be very good for my health.
On another front, it really pains me to say that I have given up on Paccar Dual-Purpose truck batteries. Simply put, my car murders them VERY quickly. I have spend the last week crunching numbers on various battery options. I need to do something fast or I will be walking to work. I have two good group 31 AGMs in my pack and another [identical] AGM running my accessories.
Option 1: Lithium. $3839 for 100aH (including HST sales tax) + shipping. That's WAY more than the $2250 I have into the car so far.
Option 2: Walmart Marine Batteries. 10 X $1000 + HST = $1120. A cheap pack but are they going to last any longer than my current style batteries? I doubt it.
Option 3: I found out that the Paccar (did I mention that I work at a Paccar truck dealership??) BA29D51 AGM "Dual Purpose" battery is made by East Penn/Deka (Same as MK) and is a 8A27 (group 27). I can buy them at cost for $147/ea, and then I only need 9 because I can use all three of my current AGMs. That totals $1482.
What did I choose?
Option 3. I kind of gave it way with the smilies, didn't I? And I'm pretty excited. I know I have now blown the budget away but at least I will get the performance bonus of AGMs. For those of you who don't know, AGMs have FAR less voltage sag than floodies, and FAR less peukert effect, meaning more range with less aH. They also do not quickly go bad when left with less than a full charge. These 8A27s are 92aH X 2 X 72 = 13.25 kWh.
I took delivery of two of them yesterday (the rest are on backorder) and replaced my weakest pair with them. The drive home revealed how strong they really are. Close to home 3/4 of the way up the hill, all floodie pairs were at 9.0-10.0V, my oldest AGMs were 11.2V and my new pair was at 11.3V. I am excited for next week when everything stays above 11V at WOT!
Next is my PWM field controller assembly.
Then is the Rudman battery balancer assembly & 72V charger.
Then I hope it's done...