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Another thing to consider is to simply connect your existing defroster grid to your radio's antenna cable thru a capacitor. That way there is no need to remove its fuse or functionality.
Actually, the AM and FM receivers in your radio are probably both already capacitively coupled (internally) but putting a 0.1 microfard cap in series with the antenna coax's center conductor will ensure that the DC that powers the defroster cannot enter your radio. Connect the outer conductor (shield) of the coax to car body.
This does not guarantee the best radio reception possible but:
1) it may be as good as the existing antenna, which is a compromise by necessity.
2) it may be more than adequate for your needs if the signals you are tuning to are already plenty strong enough, which is most often the case.
3) a somewhat poorer antenna can be an asset if signal overloading is a problem, i.e. you are too near strong transmitters, overloading the receiver's front end.
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