Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson
Does water-proofness of glue matter? Once it's covered with set fiberglass it should be weatherproof, right?
Could non-waterproof glue somehow react poorly UNDER the set fiberglass?
I was just using what I had handy. Maybe I'll put my sample in the bath-tub and scrub with hot water and see what happens.
Anyone have a recommendation for a fiberglass materials supplier? Is this the sort of thing that's good to do by mail-order, or should I try to find someplace local?
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I've been purchasing materials from the paint department at HOME DEPOT and the automotive section at Wal Mart.
They both carry cloth,matt,resin/hardener,spreaders,3M tape,plastic drop cloth,etc..
The DEPOT and Lowe's have the polyisocyanurate foam board.
Harbor Freight has economical China bristle brushes for stippling,and a good price for Nitrile gloves.
Dollar Stores have disposable plastic cups for resin batching and popsicle sticks/tongue depressors for mixing.
I traveled to a marine supply house to buy a serrated roller.You'll want one of these! They are indespensible during wet layups,allowing perfect resin penetration into the glass matrix along with air bubble removal.
I also purchased polyvinyl alcohol,PVA, which is applied with a detail spray gun after 3-coats of wax have been applied,dried,and buffed.
100% carnuba wax is an industry standard for a mold release.McGuire's makes a fine wax.
Marine supplies also carry gelcoat if you ever get into mold-making.Styrene monomer can be used to thin things.
Shop around for acetone.You'll need this for tool cleanup if using polyester.It's cheaper in bulk as are most things.
You may choose to 'build' things on the car.If so,you can use cardboard and masking tape as your armature.
A wet-layup,after curing,can be slipped off the car and placed in a water trough,where the cardboard will turn to mush,slough off,leaving only the fiberglass part.I did the CRX's nose,wheel skirts, and boat tail this way.Quick and dirty!
Ventilate a lot! Protect your eyes and skin.Always wear a professional NIOSH -approved respirator with dust pre-filters when sanding.
Pneumatic tools are great around composites.Abrasive dust cannot enter the working parts,there's no risk of errant sparks.