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Old 01-06-2013, 02:47 PM   #116 (permalink)
BamZipPow
T-100 Road Warrior
 
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 1,921

BZP T-100 (2010) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 24 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2011) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2019) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5

BZP T-100 (2020) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickjames8 View Post
Also, I've noticed that coroplast seems to be the material of choice for all boat tails. I have always enjoyed working with fiberglass. What is the main reason people do not use fiberglass? It has strength when it hardens, so you could save weight with a lighter frame while still having the structure rigid. I think in the end, the weight might be equal. Thats just a guess.
I think it comes down to skill sets. Working with Coroplast doesn't take a lot of skills or waiting fer something to cure or setup. It's readily available and is considered low cost. It's a good starting point fer most beginners to work from.
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