Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrzejM
I'm not sure that you should go for EGR removal. I'll tell you the story of Berta and it's EGR. After engine restoration I connected EGR as it was done by the factory but it showed up that valve that was opening EGR was broken. I replaced it two tanks before and I saw much better FE on MPGuino than with no EGR. The difference was easyly noticeable, engine now is working better and it seems that I have more torque in a middle range revs. So you may block EGR tube or just disconnect valve and see the outcome if that will help your FE or not. For Berta constatntly closed EGR valve was messing up with FE. Now I'm thinking if I could increase a bit (10-20%) EGR flow and see if that will help with FE.
Many years ago I was driving VW cars with 1.6 TD engine and after slightly tighteing spring in a wastegate and fuel dose increased by 1/2 turn of the regulation screw on the injection pump engine was running better with better FE as well.
I would recommend finding and installing IC for your engine. Grille block (upper and lower), belly pan, moon discs, spats maybe a discreet air dam at the front.
Good luck anyway and see you on the top of EM Diesel Cars list  |
Thanks for the suggestion- I’ve yet to see if this car has an EGR at all- GB spec cars were different from most other markets- I don’t know if there was a requirement for EGR in the UK when this car was built.
I’m looking into increasing boost pressure- by modding the waste gate actuator- its adjustable on threaded rod.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jyden
Can't say. Intake is different on every model of car's. Some are spot on from factory, some needs shorting, some needs to be longer. Trial and error!
best done on a dyno.
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That’ll be something to do once I get her serviced then
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1
AAZ is the dual opening pressure injector engine if I remember correctly.
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All I know is those injectors are a ***** to rebuild and balance because of the dual spring pressures. It needs special equipment compared to other mechanical injectors. A few people have tried them on MBs with limited success although they do tend to be quieter at idle. |
I believe the US spec cars are dual pressure ones- European ones are single pressure as far as I can tell- so less rebuild issues thankfully!
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeanBurn
I would look into fitting an inter-cooler if you are really looking for cooler intake temps. Cold are intakes are a drop in the bucket in comparison when you look at the post turbo air temps.
Be careful with grill blocks on those cars. Make sure the radiator and cooling system is running absolutely top notch before attempting. The older cars tended to run hot and then at times the cooling system tries to catch up after the fact especially on hot days, driving up hill, I had a dash mount manual fan switch just in case. I got better results by finding an optimum speed, insulating the turbo exhaust side and making sure the muffler is free flowing. My brothers 1.6L TD muffler had all kinds of soot accumulation when he got his looked at.
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An intercooler and Muffler delete will be on the cards once I have the car tuned and any niggles fixed. An I C seems to work best with turbo and fuelling tweaks
The rad looks ropey, but a new one is under £60- I’d envisage cleaning/rebuilding it sooner rather than later..