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wmjinman · 03-23-2013, 03:25 AM

You need a ScanGauge - or something that'll do essentially the same thing. I can't remember the difference between the SG-II and the "E" off the top of my head, but the feature of the "II" that makes it worth it's weight in gold is the "trip" feature. Read MetroMPG's article on A-B-A testing. (I think it's a "sticky" at the top of the EcoModding Central catagory). The ScanGauge with "trip/reset" is what makes that possible. Do you have cruise control? With a Lincoln, I'd assume that's a "yes". By using the ScanGauge, cruise control, and MetroMPG's A-B-A testing method, you can get a lot of ACCURATE data really fast (well, it might take you over an hour, but not a whole tankfull with many days of variables screwing up your accuracy).

To really know your grille block's effectiveness, you'll probably need something better than warmup times and coasting ability (depending on how rigorously you're testing your coasting ability). The main benefit is in preventing excess air from getting into the under-hood area, where it causes tremendous drag getting out again. Much better to force the air around the front of the car - regardless it's shape - than let it go into the under-hood torture chamber.

For Grille Blocks: Yes, in front tends to be a bit more effective than behind the grille. One thing I tried on my Jimmy was using pieces of plexiglass (or lexan) in front of my headlights. If you got something like that (clear plastic) and put that in front of your grille, it wouldn't stand out too much, and maybe not look too ridiculous for you. ? An "el-cheapo" alternative could be to get some of that 2" wide clear packing tape (like ultra-wide "scotch tape"), and create your block from that. Since it's clear, your grille would show through it, and it wouldn't be too visible unless the light was reflecting off it just right.

Better mounting that duct tape? Sure. Let's see - glue it on with silicone, tie it to the grille around the perimeter with "zip-ties", maybe use a few well-placed sheet metal screws - - - I think one guy made a "panel" that actually replaced the grille - - -

Sounds like 45 might be a good speed for you. Seems I remember there's a rule of thumb that goes something like "go as slow as you can & still keep 'er in top gear". Again, once you get the ScanGauge, testing to find your maximum MPG speed should be fairly simple. - that's assuming you can find a fairly lightly travelled, fairly flat, straight section of road you can do your two-way testing on. Around Oakland, I dunno - that's a pretty big city!!! But even if you have to take a trip 1/2 hour to 45 minutes - even an hour - away to find your "testing road", the information you'd get would be super-valuable.

03-23-2013, 03:25 AM	#22 (permalink)
wmjinman Master EcoModder Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Carson City, Nevada Posts: 612 Jimmy - '00 GMC Jimmy SLT 90 day: 21.18 mpg (US) The White Gnat - '99 Suzuki Swift Team Suzuki 90 day: 51.87 mpg (US) Thanks: 240 Thanked 114 Times in 90 Posts	You need a ScanGauge - or something that'll do essentially the same thing. I can't remember the difference between the SG-II and the "E" off the top of my head, but the feature of the "II" that makes it worth it's weight in gold is the "trip" feature. Read MetroMPG's article on A-B-A testing. (I think it's a "sticky" at the top of the EcoModding Central catagory). The ScanGauge with "trip/reset" is what makes that possible. Do you have cruise control? With a Lincoln, I'd assume that's a "yes". By using the ScanGauge, cruise control, and MetroMPG's A-B-A testing method, you can get a lot of ACCURATE data really fast (well, it might take you over an hour, but not a whole tankfull with many days of variables screwing up your accuracy). To really know your grille block's effectiveness, you'll probably need something better than warmup times and coasting ability (depending on how rigorously you're testing your coasting ability). The main benefit is in preventing excess air from getting into the under-hood area, where it causes tremendous drag getting out again. Much better to force the air around the front of the car - regardless it's shape - than let it go into the under-hood torture chamber. For Grille Blocks: Yes, in front tends to be a bit more effective than behind the grille. One thing I tried on my Jimmy was using pieces of plexiglass (or lexan) in front of my headlights. If you got something like that (clear plastic) and put that in front of your grille, it wouldn't stand out too much, and maybe not look too ridiculous for you. ? An "el-cheapo" alternative could be to get some of that 2" wide clear packing tape (like ultra-wide "scotch tape"), and create your block from that. Since it's clear, your grille would show through it, and it wouldn't be too visible unless the light was reflecting off it just right. Better mounting that duct tape? Sure. Let's see - glue it on with silicone, tie it to the grille around the perimeter with "zip-ties", maybe use a few well-placed sheet metal screws - - - I think one guy made a "panel" that actually replaced the grille - - - Sounds like 45 might be a good speed for you. Seems I remember there's a rule of thumb that goes something like "go as slow as you can & still keep 'er in top gear". Again, once you get the ScanGauge, testing to find your maximum MPG speed should be fairly simple. - that's assuming you can find a fairly lightly travelled, fairly flat, straight section of road you can do your two-way testing on. Around Oakland, I dunno - that's a pretty big city!!! But even if you have to take a trip 1/2 hour to 45 minutes - even an hour - away to find your "testing road", the information you'd get would be super-valuable.