Quote:
Originally Posted by nackerton
Where did you buy that A123 system?
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I bought 2x 4S3P batteries off eBay. The two will be wired in parallel for a 4S6P pack, plus side being that one pack can be removed for cycling/ balancing without 'disconnecting' the battery. The 6P pack should be enough for summer driving, but a third pack (for 9P total) could be added for total security in winter. Cost $240 and save around 16kg. If the car wasn't under warranty I'd be able to go a bit further by removing the stock battery connectors, steel battery tray etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryland
What LED's did you get that were not bright enough?
I have LED's from LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS in my car and the bulb replacements that have a single 3watt LED in each tail light of my car that draws 1 watt as a running light and 3 watts as a brake light, the red LED behind a red lens is brighter and crisper then an 5/25 watt incandescent bulb.
when comparing LED's compare lumins, not watts, I have a few bulb replacements that are large clusters of LED's and they draw a lot of power without much light output.
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I bought the highest current (and not cheap) DRL (white) globes I could find on eBay. I understand the difference between lumens and watts, but my reasoning was that an LED array drawing a real 11W would have to be brighter than a 21W filament. The vast majority of sellers don't list lumens, and I have no way to measure that at home if they're fudging the figures.
The other issue is that higher current draw makes it less likely to trip the CANBUS bulb out warnings. You can buy CANBUS globes, but people have had mixed results from those too. Where possible, I'd rather have the current going into producing light than powering a resistor.
Anyway, I will be ordering a bunch from superbright, down the line I might try custom building, mainly for those DRL's.