Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilBlanchard
Follow up question: is there any regen on the *brake* pedal?
I hope there is, but reading between the lines on your earlier posts - there
probably is not.
In that case, I would drive it in D most of the time ans learn to coast, and
then shift to E to get regen. And you could start up again in E (to take
advantage of the presumably truncated power use?) and then shift to D once
you get going, then coast ... and so on.
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Honestly, without checking the documentation, from my experience so far,
I don't think there's regen on the brake pedal. I tried driving mostly in D and
shifting into E for regen as you've suggested. Yeah, it worked. But maybe I'm
too undisciplined... or just too lazy. All that stirring about with the gears took
too much concentration to be in the right gear at the right time.
Ther's also a matter of some Neutral sensing micro switches in the shift
mechanism that are giving some folks problems. When one or both are on
the fritz the car won't move. At least when the problem first appears simple
switching over fixes it, but new switches are then in order too. Fortunately
this can be done DIY without too much disassembly hassel... once you get the
car flat bed hauled home that is! I think this matter is caused, or at least
accelerated, by doing the N-D-E dance.
So, I drive almost exclusively in E.
We now have the option of an enhanced firmware update for the HV
controller, or whatever it's called. It raises the top speed in D from 60 to 75
MPH. Of course, using the new top end speed results in significant SOC use
/range reduction.More meaningful to us, it also provides a steeper startup
torque curve and greater regen in E. So, it should be easier to find and keep
the glide point in E. Top speed in E remains to same or maybe reduced to 55
MPH. Most everyone who's had it installed likes the new profiles. And they do
say that they're using the shifting between D and E technique more than
before. I think that I'll have it installed too. I'll have to check if my local
dealer --qbout 20 miles away -- can do it, or it takes a factory rep -- from
Elkhart, Indiana. I'm hoping the former.
Quote:
Any plans for aeromods? 
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Funny you should ask. Immediately we got the car I was thinking along those
lines. Actually at the speeds we typically drive, up to 40 MPH, any benefit
would probably be at the margin. That said I've considered just about
everything:
* Wheel covers, preferably clear
* front and side air dams
* rear wheel spats -- but it would be really difficult to match the body color
and texture.
* rear roof line extension maybe 12-15 inches in either clear or smoked
plexy.
* under body fairing. The whole middle of the underbody is near perfectly flat
as it's the bottom of the battery box. I've gone so far as to get dimensioned
drawings of pieces of front and rear pieces. These from a Norwegian driver
who has also lowere his car ~2 inches. The car looks really good, but due the
suspension bits being from Pugeot and having to come from Europe, cost
wise that's way beyond what I'm likely to ever do.
Other stuff has come up and I've done nothing yet. But nothing definitely
ruled out either.
When/if I do any mods I'll keep all you-all informed.