[Superfuelgero]

*This thread had been updated to reflect changes. I could not find a place for a "build thread" so I'm hijacking this one.

Figured I would formally join after lurking for the past year.

Picked up a second vehicle to drive around and back and forth to school, a 92 vx. I was driving my wife's 10' corolla for school and my truck during the week. My school run (320 miles) would net between 45-48 mpg (34 epa) doing 52 mph, with a lower grill block and maxed out tire psi.

With the vx, getting 50-56mpg doing 55-60mph, including my city driving during the week (200 miles). So basically for what my truck (91 3/4 ton 4x4 suburban lifted on 37's) cost me during the week, I can do that plus my school run with a little extra to spare.

Mods done so far (April-May 2013):

• SIR lip to replace missing vx piece
• 0-20w Synthetic oil, with Lubromoly added (graphite suspended in oil)
• 0 degree alignment (camber and toe)

  This is very manageable on a vx w/o power steering, and makes it actually more enjoyable on the long highway trips

• removed rain guards
• removed drivers mirror

  These are found on down-trim rhd cars, the part numbers are:
  Honda part #"s
  L: 76271-SR3-000
  R: 76221-SR3-000

• NGK ZFR4F-11 VX plugs, indexed and side gapped

  Fyi, the proper location to aim for using the insight as a guide is the fuel injector. This is towards the intake and slightly to the right (about 1 o'clock).

• quieter muffler
• narrower 155 tires on rear, all tires at max
• changed trans oil with Honda mtf2 w/ 2 cans lubromoly
• Use my normal gas station. 100% gas, same time of day, they pump (free) which eliminates wishful pumping.

Goal:

• Retain 600 mile range (have the 12 gal tank), and get my speed up to 65-70 mph.

*update july 2013 currently at 63mpg

• Fixed the inner fenders (were missing the "flat' that went under the bumper. undercoated at the same time for noise.
  
• Added NAPA brake reduction clips

• -Part # UP 84201

• Note these were added at the same time both axles, rotors, pads, and wheel bearings were changed, so hard to quantify.
• Removed the windshield trim, and molded sealant. this is the base layer only currently. I'm doing it in 2 layers (one think, one thin) to avoid shrinkage.
  
• Fixed the A/C. This was needed for a few days to prevent cooking myself. My personal observations with a lean burn car is its better to crack the windows under 65mph instead of the normal under 45mph for most cars. This is because it is very hard to maintain lean burn with the a/c on, and the throttle angle is increased much more than that from window-down drag.

Update July-September

• Replaced entire front end with 1 piece fiberglass unit. this removed 60lbs and all seams. Also removed washer system. Remounted SiR spoiler using u-nuts
• Tried a full grill block (package tape), it got too hot. Cut a 1.5x6 hole in it that can be covered by a licence plate. Also makes it easier to remove nose since I can put one hand there and one at the top, then pull off. Will replicate in aluminum (have).
• Installed a adjustable cam gear. The VX didn't like being advanced 4 deg. Resulted in a very narrow lean burn window and slight ping. This is because the d15z1 is advanced from the factory 4 deg verses normal honda engines. Will try 2. The woodruff key you will need is Honda Part #90741-657-000
• Increased valve lash to upper limit (old school cam size reduction trick). No difference in mpg, made it sound like a diesel.
• Removed the rear speakers
• Removed the passenger side wiper. After the recent heavy rain, actually works better within the used section of the windshield (also a tco improvement).
• Removed the antenna and plugged the hole using Honda part #39152-SR3-A00
• Switched to Iridium plugs (indexed), from the correct NGK's (with 5k miles), better off-idle, but no mpg difference.
• Replaced cluster with Si unit. Redline on tach is higher,and shift light is now "cruise" light, but is otherwise plug and play.

October -November 2013 update

• 7 lbs flywheel, and new clutch
• Dropped the front with ef tokico springs (1.25" on ef, 2.25" on eg = net rake of 1.5" due to front end lightening).
• Billet (underdrive) crank pulley belts used:alt = 285k4/4pk0725
• New NGK O2 sensor
• Installed & removed 95% grill block, caused overheat issues.
• CCCRacing 'outlaw' rear spoiler
• Godspeed camber kit
• 0-20w oil in transmission (w/ graphite)
• Maint: gen stuff like t-belt, water pump, seals etc

December -January update

• Revised the grill block with two dimple die holes (pic below)
• Peel and stick insolation in spare tire well to reduce noise
• Minor weatherstripping adds to reduce noise, more to come.
• Insight spare rims
• failed moon disc add, on back burner now.

February -March 2014 update

• Uk/EDM ECU (G02)
• Car repainted with graphite coating
• This Month Mainly focused on weight and comfort:
  Aluminum body Ridetech Air Struts: 6 lbs ea.
  Stock strut: 9.2 lbs ea
  Stock Steel Spare: 18.6 lbs.
  Insight Aluminum spare: 14.6 lbs.
  Stock jack and lug wrench (replaced by AAA card, not weighed): 6.4 lbs.
  Total Savings: 23.2

April -May 2014 update

• One piece headlights (smoother)
• Insight brake drums
• SI console
• MSD Ignition
• 4 hole injectors
• Fix oil leak
• New spare cover w/insolation added
• Si privacy cover (much quieter with these 2)
• RE92 tires
• Moon discs
• Revise grill block for summer

Work next up

• Radio delete via amp and mini jack (to free up dash space for gauges)
• Water air intercooler (WAI) warm air intake (WAI) w/ thermal vacuum HAI (have material now)
• vacuum gauge
• Revise windshield trim delete
• misc cosmetic repairs
• mpguino
• Cruise control

Fyi's:

• On up shift equipped civics, if the $2 rubber stop on the brake switch degrades; Your brake lights will stay on. If your brake lights are on no up-shift light. You can confirm this by tapping the brake pedal on the side to turn off brake lights. The part number is Part# 46505-SA5-000, and is still available from Honda (about $3 online). This also is on on the clutch, so might as well replace both since it should be the same, old age also.
• If your window cranks or wore out/ broken, these are available new still for about $10 online.
• $20 starter fix using toyota parts How to: rebuild your honda starter - Carolina Hondas
• Do not over-tighten your cluster screws (holding in each gauge). there are fine fine wires that attach to these, and they will break causing the gauges to no long work.

Threads of interest to a vx owner:

• Tricking lean burn http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...nda-23288.html
  Fixing gauge issues gas gauge problem - Honda-Tech
  Kill switch http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...vic-12075.html
  Team Honda EcoModder Team Competition
  Idle issues
• Gas Savers - Fuel Efficiency Forum
• Hunting idle when headlights on - Honda-Tech
  Correct O2
• NGK Partfinder for Cars & Light Commercial Vehicles

Future ref for me:

• 13209 http://www.tomco-inc.com/Catalog/38t...m%20valves.pdf
• designhttp://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ion-22468.html
• mpguino buttons95 Civic Hatch Sunroof Switch Wiring - Honda-Tech
• Injectors:
  The CX/VX injectors are 06164-P05-A02 for the D15B8/D15Z1 (5 spd)
  All Honda ECUs drive high impedance injectors or low impedance injectors with an external resistor box.
  
  Hondas switch the injectors on and off rapidly (red line). With poorer quality transistors the injectors do not open or close as quickly, resulting in less fuel delivered in the same amount of time. The difference is most noticeable at small injector durations - part throttle.
  
  Increase your fuel pressure and the extra fuel line pressure can slow the injector opening. Another reason to keep low fuel pressures.
• ECU Part Numbers
  All Honda ECUs have a part number which is located on the side of the ECU and inside the ECU on the connector. e.g. 37820-P72-A01
  
  The part number consists of three components:
  
  Honda's part number for ECU, which is always 37820
  Three characters (which are loosely related to the model of car/engine). e.g P72
  Three characters (which are the revision of the ECU) e.g. A01 or G52
  The middle three characters are the most useful to identify what the ECU is. Different generation ECUs may use the same characters. e.g. a P72 OBD I ECU is different from a P72 OBD II ECU. Here is a list of common ECUs:
  
  The last 3 characters are broken down into 3 parts. "A" generally is used for US ECUs. "G" is European, and "J" is Japanese. There are other versions of this, but you get the idea. The second digit "0" typically means manual transmission, where a "5" means automatic transmission, and the last digit "1" is the version number.
  
  37820-p07-C00 = canadian vx ecu
  37820-p07-000 = obd1 jdm equivalent of vx ecu
  37820-p07-A00 = vx 49 state 1992-1993
  37820-P07-A01 = vx 49 state 1994-1995
  37820-p07-L00 = California vx ecu (version 1)
  37820-P07-G02 = UK/ Belgium/ Australia VEI (version 1)
  37820-P07-G02 = UK/ Belgium/ Australia VEI (version 2)
  P84 is 92-95 OBD-1 JDM Civic ETi VTEC-E automatic
  
  

  Originally Posted by basjoos

  The main difference is that the UK ecu allows lean burn above 2500 rpm, which the US version doesn't. So, combined with the aerocivic's low drag, allows it to cruise along in lean burn on level roads at over 90 mph.

  My 92 USA ECU allowed this too (drafting) I've since swapped to UK also, will report difference
  
  Emissions changes in 1994
  -Cat must last 100k mi instead of 50k mi
  Model year...Typical Cut Points...Well-tuned engine
  
  ..............CO%.....HC ppm..........CO%.....HC ppm
  
  1981-93..... 1.0-2.5... 200-300..... 0.0-0.5... 10-50
  
  1994 & up..... 1.0-1.5... 50-100..... 0.0-0.2... 02-20
  
  92-95 OBD1 Civic VX (D15Z1)
  
  Unique in that it has two 66207 processors (one presumably for the wideband O2)
  
  Note: 303 P07 Code is very similar to 304 P28-A01 Code, at least vectors are the same!
  
  RAM
  
  Location Bytes Description Notes
  00CC 1 Speed sensor Km/h
  00D9 1 ECT sensor 0v-5v 0x00-0xFF
  ROM
  
  Locat Bytes Description Notes
  1292 1 Vtec Coolant Temp Check (0xD8 enables, 0xFF disables)
  1997 1 Speed limiter Value B7 is 183 km/h (114mph); FE is 254 km/h (158 mph)
  1998 2 Speed Limiter Routine Bypass Change from jge label_something to two NOPs (00 00) to disable speed limiter
  2BA3 2 Checksum Jump Instruction Change JEQ 2BB6 (C9 10) to SJ 2BB6 (CB ??) to disable checksum
  60E6 1 Vtec Enable (0xFF enables, 0x00 disables) need to verify ?
  60E7 1 Knock Enable (0xFF enables, 0x00 disables) need to verify ?
  60FA 1 Vtec VSS Check (0x00 enables, 0xFF disables) need to verify ?
  60FB 1 Debug Mode (0xFF enables, 0x00 disables) need to verify ?

EGR Cleaning
Regenerator Idea
/out