Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com - View Single Post - WIKISPEED build for Electric Motor Module

thingstodo · 05-26-2013, 12:13 AM

Top view, motor on the left, transmission on the right, front of the car is top on the picture. 246a

Measurements - 11.5 inches from the end of the left wheel axle to the outside edge of the motor module. Subtracting 4 inches for the car frame, the axle ends 7.5 inches Left of the car. Is that good enough for the wheel module? The same distance on the right. I centered the transmission and motor to put 11.5 inches from the outside of the frame to the end of the axle.

The way things are arranged right now, the motor and transmission fit within the motor module.

Back or bottom of the picture is 2 pairs of used flooded lead acid batteries connected by a fuse or by a maintenance switch. This is the 'lower' layer of the motor module. The batteries have room around them and beneath them for insulation and strong battery boxes.

Back view looking forward. You can see the batteries with the motor and transmission ahead of them. The batteries are about 10 inches high plus frame, insulation, etc about 14 inches. 251a

The transmission reaches about 16 inches high. It can stick out beneath the frame ... depending on where the axles are to exit the motor module. No insulation or top required but a transmission mount would be nice.

Top view with electronics added. The LVJB is below the HVJB, in the middle of the picture. To the left at the back is a box about the size of the P&S 500A DC open source controller. You can see the Kelly controller beside the box. They Kelly is quite small. To the right is a toolbox that is about the size of the RUSSCO charger but not as tall. This is slightly larger than the charger from the Carryall 1. 260a

Back view with electronics added. You can see the LVJB below the HVJB in the middle. These are sitting on a 2x4 spacer above the batteries. The right has the box for the controller above the 2x4 spacer on the batteries. The left has the toolbox for the charger above the batteries. the charger will be taller. The Kelly controller is not visible since it is behind the box. 268a

Cabling. Many cables will be entering the HVJB. How do I get the cables into the tub? With a real junction box, holes are drilled through the walls, and the walls are thick enough to support the cable connectors. The cable connectors have strain reliefs on them to prevent damage to the HVJB terminals. The clear plastic container is quite thin, and will not support connectors. Drilling several holes will remove any strength that the container has. So I'm going to try routing all of the cables entering and exiting on one side of the HVJB so that I can use external strain relief on a piece of plywood, beside the plastic case. This will make the cables entry a bit more complicated ...

05-26-2013, 12:13 AM	#54 (permalink)
thingstodo Master EcoModder Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Saskatoon, canada Posts: 1,488 Ford Prefect - '18 Ford F150 XLT XTR Tess - '22 Tesla Y LR Thanks: 746 Thanked 565 Times in 447 Posts	Update for May 20, with pictures Top view, motor on the left, transmission on the right, front of the car is top on the picture. 246a Measurements - 11.5 inches from the end of the left wheel axle to the outside edge of the motor module. Subtracting 4 inches for the car frame, the axle ends 7.5 inches Left of the car. Is that good enough for the wheel module? The same distance on the right. I centered the transmission and motor to put 11.5 inches from the outside of the frame to the end of the axle. The way things are arranged right now, the motor and transmission fit within the motor module. Back or bottom of the picture is 2 pairs of used flooded lead acid batteries connected by a fuse or by a maintenance switch. This is the 'lower' layer of the motor module. The batteries have room around them and beneath them for insulation and strong battery boxes. Back view looking forward. You can see the batteries with the motor and transmission ahead of them. The batteries are about 10 inches high plus frame, insulation, etc about 14 inches. 251a The transmission reaches about 16 inches high. It can stick out beneath the frame ... depending on where the axles are to exit the motor module. No insulation or top required but a transmission mount would be nice. Top view with electronics added. The LVJB is below the HVJB, in the middle of the picture. To the left at the back is a box about the size of the P&S 500A DC open source controller. You can see the Kelly controller beside the box. They Kelly is quite small. To the right is a toolbox that is about the size of the RUSSCO charger but not as tall. This is slightly larger than the charger from the Carryall 1. 260a Back view with electronics added. You can see the LVJB below the HVJB in the middle. These are sitting on a 2x4 spacer above the batteries. The right has the box for the controller above the 2x4 spacer on the batteries. The left has the toolbox for the charger above the batteries. the charger will be taller. The Kelly controller is not visible since it is behind the box. 268a Cabling. Many cables will be entering the HVJB. How do I get the cables into the tub? With a real junction box, holes are drilled through the walls, and the walls are thick enough to support the cable connectors. The cable connectors have strain reliefs on them to prevent damage to the HVJB terminals. The clear plastic container is quite thin, and will not support connectors. Drilling several holes will remove any strength that the container has. So I'm going to try routing all of the cables entering and exiting on one side of the HVJB so that I can use external strain relief on a piece of plywood, beside the plastic case. This will make the cables entry a bit more complicated ... Attached Thumbnails